HomeClimbingLa Fissure

La Fissure: A Subtle Challenge in Les Fesses

Val-David, Quebec Canada
slab
runout
trad gear
exposed
single pitch
Laurentians
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Fissure
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La Fissure offers a focused 130-foot slab climb on the edge of Les Fesses, blending steady trad climbing with a quiet challenge. Its subtle sequences reward balance and patience, perfect for those looking to refine slab technique in a tranquil Laurentian setting."

La Fissure: A Subtle Challenge in Les Fesses

La Fissure stretches proudly on the far right flank of the Les Fesses sector, presenting a drawn-out slab that tests your nerve over 130 feet of vertical rock. This single-pitch trad climb reveals itself slowly, starting with a somewhat gritty approach where dirt and small debris whisper the passage’s quiet history. As you settle into its rhythm, the rock shifts beneath your hands—an inviting canvas of subtle edges and feet that demand precise balance and steady footwork. The route’s intermediate rating of 5.4 PG13 underplays some of its careful moments: a couple of exposed sections spanning around 5 meters each push you to commit fully, especially as protection thins. Running double ropes adds confidence here, as the descent is a one-way journey – no walkoffs wait at the summit.

Surrounded by the raw Laurentian forest, Les Fesses offers a climbing experience that feels both close to nature and refreshingly solitary. Light filters through trees to soften the slab’s surface in the morning, giving you ideal conditions for an early ascent. This climb suits adventurers who enjoy a grounded challenge—where the focus lies in movement, judicious gear placements, and savoring the quiet pulse of the wilderness around you. While not flashy, La Fissure rewards patience and precision, creating a memorable day out with tangible connection to the granite underfoot.

Planning your trip here means preparing for a straightforward yet sensitive slab climb. Footwear with sticky rubber and a relaxed mind calibrated to slab psychology will serve you well, as will careful gear choices—standard pro with attention to doubled ropes for retreat. The approach veers through classic Laurentians terrain, with a modest hike that sets a thoughtful tone even before the first hold. Keep your hydration ready, and consider weather that favors cool, dry conditions to avoid slippery surfaces. With two local votes standing testament to this route’s discreet appeal, expect a quiet yet enriching outing that blends elemental engagement with the calm of the Quebec wilderness.

Climber Safety

Be aware of two significant runout zones approximately 5 meters long where falls could be serious, so keep your focus on precise gear placement. The rock can feel slippery when damp, especially at the start, and there is no walkoff from the top—rappelling is required.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning shade on the slab.

Use sticky-soled shoes for better grip on the slightly dirty rock start.

Double ropes help manage rope drag and protect the exposed sections.

Carry enough water; the approach is moderate but humid in summer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.4 PG13 rating reflects technical simplicity offset by runout sections that demand a calm head and solid placement skills. While easy in moves, the route’s sparse protection bumps the mental effort, fitting well into local slab classics that reward commitment over raw power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with an emphasis on small to medium cams and nuts. Double ropes are advised to manage the length and protect the runout segments safely. The route lacks an easy descent, so a rappel setup is essential.

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Tags

slab
runout
trad gear
exposed
single pitch
Laurentians