HomeClimbingLa Chimenea de Papá Noel

La Chimenea de Papá Noel: A Classic Wide Chimney in Quebec’s Northern Wilds

Dalquier, Canada
chimney
trad
single pitch
wide crack
fixed anchors
jack pine
northern Quebec
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Chimenea de Papá Noel
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Wide and welcoming, La Chimenea de Papá Noel offers 35 feet of classic chimney climbing in Quebec’s northern forests. With solid protection and a shared anchor, this trad route is both accessible and rich with wilderness character."

La Chimenea de Papá Noel: A Classic Wide Chimney in Quebec’s Northern Wilds

La Chimenea de Papá Noel carves a distinctive line through the rugged northern expanse of Quebec’s Abitibi-Témiscamingue region, inviting climbers into a bold chimney crack that demands attention and respect. This single-pitch 35-foot climb starts with a spacious, wide chimney that swallows you in its protective embrace. The rock inside provides solid placements, allowing for confident protection as you ascend. Feel the cool stone press against your hands and feet as you work your way upward, the chimney’s sheer walls framing the climb like a natural corridor. Upon exiting this chimney, a short scramble along a small wall section to the right brings you to a sturdy belay station equipped with two fixed bolts. This anchor point serves both La Chimenea de Papá Noel and its neighbor, Balade Panoramique, offering a shared haven for shifting strategies and securing ropes.

The surrounding environment is quietly wild, with the scent of jack pine hanging in the air and the distant calls of birds punctuating the silence. Climbers often build a makeshift anchor on the tree just beyond the chimney’s mouth, savoring the tactile connection to the landscape. The approach crosses typical northern Quebec terrain—dense forest underfoot giving way to exposed rock faces. Weather can be unpredictable, so timing your trip for a clear day ensures the climb stays inviting rather than challenging due to wet or slippery conditions.

What makes this climb appealing is its blend of straightforward, commitment-free climbing with a touch of wilderness adventure. Rated at 5.6, it’s accessible for those developing their trad climbing skills, offering a solid introduction to chimney techniques without overwhelming complexity. The protection is straightforward—a standard rack suffices, with comfortable placements inside the chimney and secure fixed bolts at the top.

When planning your ascent, be sure to bring sturdy footwear with reliable edging, as the transition from chimney to face requires steady footing on compact rock. Hydration is essential, especially on warm days when the forested approach can trap heat and humidity. Carrying a small selection of trad gear including cams sized for wide cracks will cover the chimney’s demands effectively. Start early to enjoy cooler morning air and avoid afternoon sun lingering on the face.

Descend with care—rappelling onto fixed bolts from the top anchor is the standard exit, but verify anchor integrity and use redundant setups when available. The panoramic views from the belay provide a moment to appreciate the region’s broad horizons before packing up and heading back through the quiet stands of jack pine that frame the approach.

La Chimenea de Papá Noel stands as a memorable route for those seeking a concise yet rewarding climb, combining the technical satisfaction of chimney movement with the serene surroundings of Quebec’s northern wildlands. Whether you’re a seasoned climber looking to add a unique pitch to your log or a dedicated beginner aiming to sharpen your trad skills, this route delivers both challenge and charm in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Though the chimney offers secure placements, the top anchor relies on two fixed bolts which should be inspected before use. The exposed tree anchor can serve as backup but may not be stable in all conditions. Approach terrain can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Use cams sized for wide cracks to protect chimney sections comfortably.

Start early in the day to avoid warm afternoon sun on the face.

Check fixed bolts at the anchor for corrosion before relying on them.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for the chimney-to-face transition.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 grade feels approachable for climbers familiar with basic chimney technique. It doesn’t overreach on steepness but challenges with body positioning inside the wide crack. Compared to other local climbs, it sits at the beginner-friendly end but demands thoughtful gear placements and calm chimney movement.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers protections inside the chimney well. At the top, two fixed bolts secure the anchor shared with the adjacent Balade Panoramique route. Alternatively, you can use the jack pine tree at the chimney’s exit to build a natural anchor.

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Tags

chimney
trad
single pitch
wide crack
fixed anchors
jack pine
northern Quebec