"A focused trad climb on the right edge of Staircase sector, La Chatte à Louis combines crack climbing with delicate slab moves. This 50-foot, single-pitch route offers a controlled challenge with dual exit options, inviting climbers to engage carefully with protection and technique."
La Chatte à Louis presents a concise yet captivating trad climb perched on the far right flank of the Staircase sector, part of the rugged Mont-King massif near Val-David in the Laurentians. This single-pitch route stretches 50 feet up a sharply defined corner just left of a prominent roof, inviting climbers to engage with a variety of features that blend crack climbing with technical slab moves. From the very first step, the rock calls for focused footwork and calculated hand placements, demanding respect but rewarding with direct, hands-on climbing at a moderate yet deliberate 5.6 PG13 rating.
Approaching the climb, you’ll find the corner forming a clear, almost vertical channel against the broader granite face, a natural groove that guides upward movement. The initial section is solid and reasonably protected — traditional placements are ample through this first half, providing confidence as you ascend. However, the route soon diverges into two potential exit strategies at the height of the roof: one option edges right onto an easier traverse leading up a vertical crack, while the alternate, more direct finish veers slightly left, demanding delicate, balance-dependent slab moves that push exposure and technical skill.
Nature speaks here through the cool grain of the granite, its rough texture gripping your fingers, while the sun shifts overhead, casting shadows that animate features on the wall. The surrounding Laurentian forest hums softly in the background, and the refreshing mountain air invigorates climbers between moves. Though brief, this climb creates a compact experience where attention to protection placement is key—particularly as the protection quality tapers near the finish, earning the PG13 indication for a runout that asks climbers to commit tactically without becoming reckless.
La Chatte à Louis is a gateway climb for those transitioning from easy sport routes to more serious trad climbing. It’s ideally suited to climbers outfitted with a modest rack, including cams capable of fitting vertical cracks near the corner’s midsection, while light nuts and small cams will help secure tricky spots near the top. Wearing sturdy but flexible footwear will aid delicate slab moves, while a helmet is essential to guard against loose rock above the roof.
This route thrives in the shoulder seasons—spring and fall—when clear skies and cool temperatures make for stable conditions on granite. Avoid late summer if moss or dampness linger after rain, as slippery slabs will test your balance. The approach is straightforward, following established trails beside Mont-King leading to the Staircase area, requiring about 15 minutes of easy hiking through dappled forest. GPS coordinates 46.02576, -74.17664 will guide you to the crag’s base.
Descending is typically achieved via a straightforward walk-off to the base; no rappelling is required, but caution is advised on loose scree and wet patches during damp weather. Keep your rope packed but ready in case conditions or group skills call for an extra safety margin.
For climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique with a controlled adventure, La Chatte à Louis offers a balanced blend of manageable challenge and natural beauty in a quiet corner of Quebec’s climbing scene. Be ready to engage your mind as much as your muscles—this route rewards preparation, steady movement, and respect for the rock’s subtle demands.
Protection thins in the upper section, so maintain focus and place gear proactively. Slab moves can be slippery, especially if the rock is damp or dirty, and the roof area overhead sometimes sheds loose flakes—wear a helmet and check holds before committing.
Approach via established trail from Mont-King parking; allow 15 minutes on foot.
Wear sticky climbing shoes to aid delicate slab moves near the top.
Spring and fall offer best climbing conditions; avoid the damp slabs of late summer.
Practice placing gear in vertical cracks before attempting this route, as protection can feel sparse towards the finish.
A rack with small to medium cams is essential for secure placements in the first half, while protection thins near the finish, requiring careful route reading and confident slab technique.
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