"La Bi-Centenaire stands out on Weir’s granite walls with its demanding overhanging hand and fist crack. This two-pitch trad route mixes physical pump with precise gear placements, rewarding climbers with a powerful and focused challenge in Quebec’s Laurentian Mountains."
La Bi-Centenaire stands as one of Weir’s most rewarding traditional climbs, especially for those eager to test their skill on an overhanging hand and fist crack that demands both power and precise gear placement. The climb begins by negotiating access via either the challenging 3D pitch rated at 5.12a or the more moderate first pitch of Black & White at 5.9. Both approaches lead to a ledge positioned above and slightly left of the 3D anchor, where establishing a secure belay on gear is vital—you’ll want to avoid the uncomfortable anchor of 3D, which sits high and awkward.
The first pitch of La Bi-Centenaire unfolds with a leftward traverse toward a strategically placed bolt, offering a brief fixed protection point that punctuates the ascent. Climbers then engage the pitch’s crux by pushing through a roof section, a move that will likely summon a strong pump in the forearms. As the crack eases beyond a wide section, your choices multiply: you can conclude this pitch at an anchor on the right or push onward, navigating a dirty left-facing corner to reach another fixed belay on the ledge of La Voie du Centenaire. This pitch demands a blend of endurance and careful footwork on its sustained 5.11+ moves.
The second pitch, less frequently climbed and presenting a dirtier route, veers right from the anchor. It follows an overhanging dihedral rated 5.8 that requires steady climbing to finish the route. Though not a technical crux compared to the first pitch, it’s an important reminder to remain attentive, as the loose nature of the rock and grime can challenge your grip reliability.
This route stretches roughly 200 feet (about 60 meters) over two pitches, situated in the Laurentian Mountains of Quebec, within a region renowned for its granite faces that reward clean, traditional placements. The crack itself offers outstanding protection opportunities from finger to hand-sized pieces, with Camalots up to #3 essential; doubling up on hand-sized cams will increase your security on the sustained crack.
Climbers venturing here should bring a rack that favors a variety of cam sizes and expect to place solid gear carefully along hand jams and fist locks. The route's location in the Laurentians offers a generous dose of natural beauty—expect firm rock underfoot and the fresh scent of boreal forest carried on the wind, while the granite faces bask in morning sunlight before shading into the afternoon.
Accessing La Bi-Centenaire requires planning: the approach involves climbing adjacent routes or scrambling with care through steep sections. Once on the ledge, set your belay confidently on gear before committing to the exposed traverse and roof. The route's technical nature and the sustained pump factor on pitch one make it a prime candidate for climbers comfortable with intermediate to advanced trad climbing and eager for a physically engaging experience away from crowded crags.
In all, La Bi-Centenaire offers a crisp balance of adventure and challenge—a route captivating in its exposure and technical demands, grounded in solid protection and a compelling natural setting. Whether you’re savoring the pump of the roof crack or scanning the horizon from the ledge, it’s a destination that sharpens skills and rewards persistence.
The ledge station requires careful gear belays—avoid using the 3D anchor as it is high and awkward. Pitch two’s route cleanliness can be questionable; evaluate rock stability before pulling moves in the dihedral.
Access requires climbing pitches on Black & White or 3D; plan your approach accordingly and establish a gear belay on the ledge instead of using the 3D anchor.
Pitch one involves pumpy moves through a roof—warm up properly and consider your clipping strategy for the bolt and fixed anchors.
Pitch two is less climbed and dirtier; approach with caution as loose rock may be present in the overhanging dihedral.
Afternoon shade protects the wall in warmer months—opt for the morning or early afternoon to avoid slick rock from dew or rain.
Bring a full rack up to Camalot #3, with doubles in hand sizes strongly recommended to secure placements along the sustained crack. Fixed bolts and anchors are present, but reliance on good trad gear is crucial, especially on pitch one’s crux.
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