"This route marries history and difficulty under a dramatic roof in Quebec’s Laurentians. Featuring a demanding 5.12a traverse, La bataille des corbeaux tests precise crack technique and offers an exposed, pumpy climb that climbers with solid trad skills will appreciate."
La bataille des corbeaux, known also as "Le tunnel du toit," invites climbers into a compelling blend of history and challenge within Quebec's Laurentians. Originally an aid climb rated at 5.6/A1, this route was freed in 2019, marking an evolution in gear, skill, and technique. Today, it stands as a demanding 5.12a trad route, demanding finesse along a dramatic traverse beneath a massive overhang. The journey begins with the first pitch of Le Toit de Ben (5.9), guiding you onto a gendarme crowned with a bolted anchor. From here, climbers must navigate a rightward traverse that tests endurance and technique, clinging to a shallow, thin crack that stretches along the roof. Air hovers beneath your feet, heightening the sensation of exposure and focus.
As you push through the pumpy traverse, the holds respond—large and reliable at first, then fading as you edge further, demanding careful footwork and controlled moves to reach a welcomed stemming stance. It’s here that the route offers some relief: a short chimney section protected by a chockstone invites you to make upward progress, a classic move that rewards thoughtful movement and strength. Along the way, a handful of fixed pins—three in total—dot the line, but their condition advises selective use. Protection calls for a small rack: micro cams, a 0.75, and a 2, essential to safeguard the thinner placements that punctuate the route.
The approach through the Laurentians delivers a quietly powerful setting—a granite amphitheatre where the rock absorbs the forest’s cool breath and the climb challenges your skill more than brute force. This isn’t a route for casual tickers: it sits at the edge of hard trad climbing in the region, and its history and current form offer a gauge of how the sport has advanced here. The rock’s texture is firm with pockets of smoothness, demanding precision and commitment. Delivering just over 50 feet of climbing split across two pitches, it’s compact but intense.
While steep and exposed, La bataille des corbeaux rewards those prepared with solid trad experience, a good head for climatic swings, and the mental toughness to manage its demanding traverse. The climb’s rightward movement below the roof feels like a dance against gravity, where every move counts and the natural features are both guardian and challenge. The resulting summit offers not just relief but a moment to reflect on a skillful ascent in one of Quebec's most striking climbing areas.
The route’s exposed roof and thin protection mean falls could be serious—use gear placements carefully and double-check anchor security. The fixed pins are aged and should be trusted only as backups. Watch for loose rock around the chimney section and avoid this climb when damp, as the rock can get slick.
Don't clip the unused sport bolt on the gendarme—it's unnecessary and intended for a different project.
Ensure your feet are sticky and precise for the thin crack; slipping is costly due to exposure.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds that can chill you beneath the roof.
Have a partner confident in trad anchor building for the bolted anchor on the gendarme.
Bring a light rack focused on micro cams, including sizes 0.75 and 2 as crucial placements appear thin and specialized. Be ready to rely on three fixed but worn pins, and trust your crack skills throughout the traverse beneath the roof.
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