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Kung Flu - A Hidden Trad Challenge on Owl Tower

Fort Irwin, California United States
crack climb
desert
trad
top anchor start
smooth granite
single pitch
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad | TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Kung Flu
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Kung Flu is a notable trad climb on Owl Tower’s high desert granite, combining technical crack climbing with a unique top-anchor start. Its polished plates and clean crack offer a focused challenge embraced by dry, open desert air."

Kung Flu - A Hidden Trad Challenge on Owl Tower

Kung Flu stands as a compelling test on the rugged face of Owl Tower, inviting climbers into an engaging dance with granite that is both technically precise and rewarding. The climb begins with a unique entrance – instead of a straightforward approach from the ground, you must first establish an anchor above the crack and trust your rope by rappelling down to the ledge where your fingers find their first purchase. This initial maneuver sets a deliberate tone: preparation and respect for the route’s quirks are essential.

The crack itself cleaves through a formidable wall patched by smooth, polished granite plates, a distinctive feature that demands careful footwork and precise jamming technique. The granite here resists generous holds, daring climbers to finesse their way upward with steady, confident moves. At 100 feet, Kung Flu covers enough vertical territory to deepen the experience without overwhelming stamina, making it a perfect afternoon or early morning objective when temperatures are cooler.

Gear plays a pivotal role in mastering this climb. A double rack of cams up to 2 inches provides coverage for the majority of placements, with larger stoppers from 3 to 4 inches reserved for the wider crack sections. Protection is plentiful but requires thoughtful placement as the smooth granite often limits friction and stability for gear. The one-pitch route demands sharp focus since protection is the climber’s lifeline amid the intimidating expanse of polished rock.

Located within the stark and open expanse of California’s High Desert, Owl Tower and its vertical faces are a quiet refuge for trad climbers seeking solitude and pristine lines away from bustling gym-like corridors. The atmosphere is clear and dry, with the desert air sharp against skin and the sun casting long shadows that play across the face, transforming the wall’s textures as daylight shifts.

Accessing Kung Flu involves a measured approach, often on rocky, uneven terrain that sets the stage for the climb’s remoteness and the rewarding encounter with a striking high desert landscape. Climbers should bring sufficient water and prepare for sudden temperature swings; shade is limited, and the exposed nature of the approach trail means sun protection cannot be overlooked.

A calculated effort with careful grounding from top anchor to start ledge, steady feet, and well-placed pro will carry you safely up this demanding but fair 5.8 route. The descent calls for rappelling back to the ground—a straightforward process, yet sealing the experience with a second dose of focus and care.

Kung Flu’s blend of technical crack climbing, unconventional start, and the stark beauty of its desert home makes it a standout route for those eager to engage deeply with trad climbing and test their skills in a less-traveled setting. This is a route that rewards respect, preparation, and the reward of quiet achievement in a striking natural amphitheater.

Climber Safety

The route requires an unusual start by rappelling from an anchor above the crack, so ensure your setup is solid. The smooth granite offers limited friction, increasing the risk of slips, so focus on precise footwork and secure protection placements.

Route Details

TypeTrad | TR
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Set your top anchor carefully and rappel to the start ledge before climbing up the crack.

Bring a full water supply; the desert sun is relentless with little natural shade.

Wear sticky, precise climbing shoes to handle the smooth granite plates.

Plan your ascent for early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak heat and glare.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Kung Flu’s 5.8 rating reflects a solid moderate challenge, with the main crux lying in the polished rock and delicate gear placements. Compared to other climbs in the High Desert, it’s approachable yet technical, demanding precision rather than brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Require a double rack of cams up to 2 inches and single pieces in the 3 and 4 inch range. Protection placements are solid though the polished granite demands careful gear placement to ensure reliability.

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Tags

crack climb
desert
trad
top anchor start
smooth granite
single pitch