Krimo Gold offers a compelling variation to the classic Liquid Gold route found in the heart of The Bulletheads, near Squamish, British Columbia. Designed for climbers seeking to bypass the sometimes slick Half Moon chimney or those who want to avoid the exposed runout slabs, this route balances sustained technical climbing with intricate crack work that demands focused gear placements and steady composure.

The adventure begins on Pitch 1, where the climb eases you into a 30-meter stretch of shallow finger-lock cracks that gradually intensify in difficulty. Starting at about 10c/d, expect to finesse small cams as you navigate around crescent-shaped overlapped rock faces. Larger cams find placements farther right, while dyke holds await up high, lending options for protection. The bolted anchor sits slightly left of the original Liquid Gold bolt, setting the stage for a traverse that avoids the big corner. This pitch rewards careful gear placement and attention to subtle rock features, making it as much a mental challenge as physical.

Pitch 2 slides into a fun, sustained 32 meters of 10c climbing. You'll encounter a two-bolt traverse over dyke holds that demands confident footwork and balance. Following this, a one-hand crack section emerges, evolving into a right-facing corner (RFC) with layback moves leading up to ramps and easier cracks. This pitch finishes at a bolted belay, providing a reassuring stop after a physically engaging sequence—the original first ascent team rated this pitch as 10c~, but many climbers may find it leans closer to 10b.

Pitch 3 steps down slightly in difficulty—rated around 10a/b—and introduces a thin groove protected by two bolts. The climb here blossoms into a finger-to-hand crack system that leads toward a tree-anchor and a substantial flake feature. At 33 meters, this pitch exemplifies the route's engaging mixture of delicate crack technique and thoughtful protection choices. Expect to follow the terrain through a subtle transition as you make your way through wooded sections, relying on fixed lines to negotiate ledges safely.

The final pitch is the marquee moment: a demanding 10d affair that channels the signature ‘mega crack’ that defines Liquid Gold’s upper pitches. Stretching roughly 70 meters, this crack tests your endurance and gear management. The original ascent party had to stop at a large foothold about 40 meters up with two crack placements before continuing. This sequence leaves a powerful set of sustained tough crack moves for the leader to finish the climb. Plan your gear carefully—running out of cams or energy here can quickly turn challenging moves into a testing crux.

Protection calls for a double rack extending up to 3 inches, with special attention to finger-sized cams and a generous collection of nuts. The bolted anchors throughout the route offer secure belay stations, while wide cams like #3 and #4 Camalots come in handy on the last pitch's roof section. Those expecting to tackle Half Moon Chimney should carry larger gear (#4 and #5 Camalots) for backup, but a #3 can suffice in some key placements to conserve weight.

Krimo Gold provides a thoughtful alternative for climbers comfortable with sustained finger cracks and technical face climbing. It thrives in a remote, rocky setting that rewards focus and strategic gear choices. The area’s temperate climate and shaded aspects of the north-facing Bulletheads walls suggest aiming for mid to late season when the rock is reliably dry and cool, minimizing the slick conditions that sometimes plague Half Moon Chimney.

The descent leads you down through forested slopes following established trails, but expect some fixed lines to ease ledge transitions. Bringing a sturdy pair of approach shoes and some patience on the walk-off will ensure a clean finish to this demanding yet rewarding climb. Krimo Gold remains a compelling, solid test piece for climbers eager to explore beyond the standard routes and sample technical crack climbing at Squamish’s storied Bulletheads.