"Kraken Takes Pawn is a focused trad climb on Castle Rock Slab that challenges climbers with a corner system doubling as a narrow double crack before widening near the top. Perfect for those honing crack skills in Big Bear’s accessible granite."
Kraken Takes Pawn offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging trad experience on the Castle Rock Slab within the San Bernardino Mountains. This single-pitch climb stretches approximately 40 feet and negotiates a corner system that begins tight with double cracks formed by a prominent pillar and opens into a wider crack near the top. The rock here carries a reliable texture and solid edges that reward precise footwork and steady hand jams. As you ascend, you’ll feel the rock’s subtle grip under your fingertips, challenging you to trust both your technique and gear placements.
The route invites climbers who appreciate crack climbing without the complexity of multiple pitches or overly technical moves. Protection up to 4 inches fits well into the crack system, providing reassuring placements along this modest vertical challenge. The corner’s form gives the climb character: the slender double cracks demand finger and hand jams that test your finesse before the crack widens to welcome larger cams as you reach higher. This transition feels like the rock itself is offering a brief moment to breathe before continuing upward.
Set against the larger backdrop of Castle Rock Slab, Kraken Takes Pawn benefits from its location in the Big Bear Lake area, surrounded by the sculpted granite faces and pine-scented air typical of this Southern California climbing zone. The approach is straightforward, making this spot an accessible option for climbers looking to add a quality trad climb without the logistics of a lengthy hike.
When planning your trip, expect a moderate day with temperate weather most of the year, but bring layers as mountain conditions can shift quickly. The slab faces east, catching the morning sun and transitioning to shade by afternoon, so starting early is advisable to avoid heat on sunny days. Sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will serve you well here alongside classic cam sets ranging from small to fairly large sizes.
Kraken Takes Pawn is an ideal route for those eager to sharpen crack climbing skills within a manageable setting. It sits near Big Bear, a town that supports climbing excursions with gear rentals, local guide services, and mountain town amenities. Hydrate well and be mindful of changing weather when venturing into the San Bernardino Mountains. After topping out, the descent is simple—a short walk down the slab to return to the base, making the climb accessible for repeat sends or as part of a day exploring several routes in the area.
While the rock is generally solid, pay close attention to placing pro securely within the varying width cracks—some spots require careful fitting of cams up to 4 inches to ensure safety. The slab approach is mostly straightforward but can become slick if wet.
Start early to catch morning sun and avoid afternoon heat on the slab.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging capabilities for the slab and crack transitions.
Bring extra water as the approach is short but exposed to sun.
Check weather forecasts carefully; mountain conditions can shift unexpectedly.
Carry a standard rack with cams up to 4 inches to protect the narrowing cracks early on and secure placements in the wider sections at the top.
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