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Knifeblade Direct at Pinnacles National Park

Soledad, California United States
trad climbing
choss
single pitch
overhanging chimney
tree anchor
loose rock
Pinnacles west side
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Knifeblade Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Knifeblade Direct offers a rugged single-pitch trad climb on Pinnacles’ west side, where loose rock and dense lichen challenge even steady climbers. Its tight overhanging chimney crux demands careful footwork and a planned rappel from a tree anchor due to missing bolts."

Knifeblade Direct at Pinnacles National Park

Rising sharply from the rugged West Side of Pinnacles National Park, Knifeblade Direct offers a raw, hands-on trad climb that requires both grit and caution. The route follows a right-facing corner, a narrow channel that feels less like a polished challenge and more like a rugged negotiation with the rock itself. This isn’t a climb for those seeking pristine pitches; instead, you’ll find yourself navigating choss-covered holds, thick with lichen and the occasional crumbly section that demands attentive footwork and steady nerves. A fixed piton marks the first key protection about 15 feet up, but beyond that, you'll rely on your rack and careful placements to protect the entire 120-foot line.

The climb’s atmosphere is charged with the feel of a raw wilderness encounter—dust-laden air kicked up by loose flakes and the occasional rustle of scrub brushing against your arms. Belayers should don helmets and sunglasses because even a cautious leader dislodges rock and debris that can fall unpredictably.

The real challenge lies near the top: a tight, overhanging chimney that tests your ability to stay calm and precise on deteriorating rock. This squeeze leads to a narrow notch where the anchor bolts once held strong. Unfortunately, that section has since broken off, meaning top-belays require ingenuity. Climbers should bring long slings or a cordelette to build an anchor on a tree at the summit. Given the precarious state of the old slings, it’s wise to be prepared to leave some gear behind. A double-rope rappel is recommended unless you're carrying a 70-meter rope for a single descent.

For those wanting to bypass the tricky rappel, traversing over to the Knifeblade route (rated 5.5) before committing to the descent from bolted anchors near the top of the Stiletto is an option. This makes for a safer and more straightforward descent.

Protection calls for a standard rack extending up to 6 inches, with special attention to the fixed piton early on. Due to the condition of the rock and gear, steady judgment on gear placement is critical. Expect the loose rock and vegetation to demand careful moves rather than fluid climbing.

This climb lies within Pinnacles National Park, a wild and sprawling landscape marked by sharp ridges and sweeping coastal views. The area offers a sense of remoteness and ruggedness not found in many closer-to-urban climbing areas. It’s a place that rewards those willing to approach with respect for nature’s unpredictability.

Morning or late afternoon climbs are best to avoid the midday heat—this wall faces west, catching the sun for much of the day. Early season spring and late autumn offer comfortable temperatures and drier conditions, though the rock’s fragility requires constant vigilance regardless of timing.

Descending from the top demands focus—the old fixed anchors are no longer trustworthy. Rappel carefully from the tree anchor using extended slings, or opt for the two-stage rappel from Stiletto if you choose the traverse. Either way, ensure you have a plan and backup gear ready before you start your climb. Knifeblade Direct is a climb that quietly commands respect, and success comes less from speed and more from mindful movement and solid protection decisions. It’s a climb for trad climbers who appreciate adventure in a raw form, with just enough help to keep the challenge manageable.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and overgrowth increase the risk of falling debris—always wear a helmet and remain aware of your partner’s position. The top anchor bolts have failed, so bring long cordelettes to build reliable anchors on trees. Avoid soloing this route due to the hazardous rock conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Wear helmet and sunglasses to protect against falling debris.

Plan the rappel carefully; the original bolted anchors are no longer intact.

Traverse to Knifeblade (5.5) and rappel from Stiletto anchors if unsure about the direct descent.

Avoid midday heat—early morning or late afternoon climbs are cooler and safer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels on the stiffer side due to the climb’s loose rock and tricky protection. The crux chimney at the top adds a physical squeeze not typical in a standard 5.8. Comparatively, it’s more committing and less polished than nearby routes, demanding cautious leadership and solid trad skills.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack up to 6 inches and plan for one fixed piton early on. Bring extra cordelette or long slings for establishing the top anchor, as old slings are rotten and bolts have failed. Double rope rappel recommended unless you have a 70m rope.

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Tags

trad climbing
choss
single pitch
overhanging chimney
tree anchor
loose rock
Pinnacles west side