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Kitty Hawk Trad Climb at Tomahawk Buttress

Lyons, Colorado United States
finger crack
wide crack
double crack
single pitch
trad gear
Colorado
limestone
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Kitty Hawk
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A solid 5.8 trad climb in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, Kitty Hawk challenges with a low crux through wide cracks before opening into engaging double crack moves. Its manageable length and reliable protection make it a go-to for trad climbers seeking variety close to Lyons, Colorado."

Kitty Hawk Trad Climb at Tomahawk Buttress

Kitty Hawk offers a grounded but exciting trad climbing experience on the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, just outside Lyons, Colorado. The climb begins with a low crux through a wide crack, where the fingers find a snug fit in a narrower slot beyond. This initial challenge opens the door to a series of engaging moves along hollow-feeling flakes that demand both balance and a keen sense of body positioning. The texture of the rock here is distinctive—slightly hollow yet solid enough to inspire confidence as you work your way upward.

After the opening sequence, the route merges with Chickenhawk, an adjacent crack system just left of Tomahawk. Here, you can enjoy double crack climbing that adds variety and options for hand and foot jams. The entire pitch stretches about 80 feet, providing a satisfying length that’s neither overly long nor too brief for a half-day outing. The protection is straightforward—a typical trad rack covers the needs, though some climbers choose to bring a #5 cam as a precaution, even if it’s not essential.

Approaching Kitty Hawk involves a moderate hike into the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, an area known for its rugged limestone cliffs and diverse climbing opportunities. The trail is manageable but requires attention to footing given loose rock on some sections. Once at the base, the climb’s quality rock surface and natural line offer a refreshing change from more popular nearby routes.

This climb suits those looking to sharpen their trad skills without scrambling into territory that demands harder technical moves. The 5.8 grade feels appropriately challenging, with the crux at the bottom providing a real test before settling into enjoyable crack climbing rhythm. It’s an engaging route that rewards persistence and encourages mindful movement.

Timing your climb in the spring or early fall ensures comfortable temperatures and less sun exposure on the rock, especially as the wall faces in a manner that catches direct light in the afternoon. Be prepared with sturdy approach shoes and enough water to stay hydrated; the canyon’s semi-arid climate can quickly sap your energy.

Kitty Hawk is an excellent option for climbers who appreciate classic crack climbing set in a landscape that pushes you to engage naturally with the rock. The surrounding St. Vrain area offers a range of climbs, but this route remains a reliable pick for a focused, traditional lead that balances technical interest with straightforward logistics.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is mostly solid but the initial crack section requires careful footwork and attention to protection placement. Loose rock can show up on the approach trail; secure footing is crucial. Be mindful of weather, especially afternoon storms common in this region during summer months.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach on sturdy footwear due to loose rock on the trail.

Plan your climb for spring or early fall to avoid harsh sun and extreme heat.

Bring at least 2 liters of water to stay hydrated in the canyon’s dry conditions.

Check the weather before heading out — afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Kitty Hawk presents a solid but accessible challenge with a low crux that bumps the effort right off the ground. The grade feels true to South Fork standards—neither soft nor aggressively stiff—rewarding steady gear placements and crack technique. It pairs well with nearby Chickenhawk if you want to extend your day with similar crack climbing.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers this climb; some bring a #5 cam for peace of mind but it's not necessary. Emphasis is on finger and hand-sized protection fitting into the wide and finger cracks.

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Tags

finger crack
wide crack
double crack
single pitch
trad gear
Colorado
limestone