"King Under the Mountain offers climbers a clean, technical 90-foot sport climb on the Lower Tier of Highway 38 Crags. Its balance of slab and vertical terrain presents a focused challenge with reliable bolt protection and stunning mountain surroundings."
King Under the Mountain commands attention on the Lower Tier of the Highway 38 Crags, a climbing route that merges technical precision with an inviting vertical ascent. Set against the rugged backdrop of the San Bernardino Mountains, this 90-foot sport climb begins just right of the Super Soul slab and to the left of Urishiol, offering climbers a focused challenge where strength and technique unite.
The climb immediately pulls you upward on a clean slab, where every move demands balance and calculated footwork. As you transition leftward toward the vertical wall, the rock shifts from smooth faces to more commanding holds, propelling the tension and rhythm forward. Reaching the first ledge—an unspoken resting point—you sense the climb’s rising intensity, while above lies an 11a variation that only the most eager may choose to extend into.
Protected by 15 well-spaced bolts and anchored with two chains equipped with musette hangers, King Under the Mountain emphasizes confidence in protection and smooth clip techniques. The bolts provide reliable security, but the spacing requires thoughtful pacing and strategic rest spots, sharpening your mental focus as much as your physical endurance.
Located on the left flank of the Lower Tier along Frustration Creek, this route is part of a craggy expanse renowned for its solid granite and clear access, drawing climbers looking for approachable yet demanding sport climbs. The surrounding forest filters warm California sunlight through tall pines, mixing shade with bright patches that shift as the day progresses. Expect clean granite surfaces that hold warmth in the morning and cool distinctly as afternoon shadows settle, making timing your effort crucial for comfort and grip.
Getting to the base involves a moderate 15-minute hike through uneven terrain marked by dusty trails and occasional loose rock underfoot. GPS coordinates point to latitude 34.10202 and longitude -116.96535—easy to find with any reliable navigation tool. Early morning ascents are advised to beat heat and enjoy the crisp mountain air before it thickens later in the day.
For climbers packing their gear, a light rack supplemented with quickdraws for the 15 bolts will suffice. Musette hangers at the anchors ease lowering or rappelling options if desired. Footwear that can handle slab friction and allow subtle edging will improve your ability to manage the technical lower slab section. Hydration is essential—carry enough water for the approach and climb, especially during warmer months.
King Under the Mountain offers a clear, focused sporting experience. It tests rhythm, control, and mental steadiness without overwhelming complexity, making it a worthy addition for those progressing into the 5.10 range. Its single pitch length means you’ll enjoy an intense burst of climbing without a lengthy commitment, ideal for building confidence or sharpening sport climbing skills in a natural, quiet setting.
Beyond the climb, the broader Highway 38 Crags area evokes a sense of rugged adventure. This remote stretch of the San Bernardino Mountains protects a relatively untouched granite playground with views that reward every climb and every step on winding trails. Respect for the environment, preparation for shifting weather, and mindful pacing ensure this climb remains as inviting for future generations as it is today.
While bolts are well-maintained, the spacing demands attentive clipping to avoid falls. The approach trail features loose rock—wear sturdy shoes and watch your footing, especially descending.
Arrive early to take advantage of crisp morning conditions before the granite heats up.
Bring footwear optimized for slab friction and edging.
Carry ample water, as the approach is moderately exposed without reliable water sources.
Take care on the approach trail where loose rock can catch hikers off guard.
The climb is secured by 15 bolts spaced to require solid clipping rhythm, ending with two chains outfitted with musette hangers for smooth lowering. A light sport rack with quickdraws is all you'll need.
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