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King Pin Trad Climb at Eagle Peak, Lassen National Park

Chester, California United States
face climb
minimal protection
tricams recommended
single pitch
exposed
granite
high elevation
Lassen
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
King Pin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"King Pin is a demanding single-pitch trad climb on Eagle Peak’s granite face in Lassen National Park. With a lone bolt and sparse protection, this 5.10a route calls for confident climbing and strategic gear placement amid an exposed mountain setting."

King Pin Trad Climb at Eagle Peak, Lassen National Park

King Pin offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that demands both steady nerves and sharp route-finding skills. Located on the left side of Peapod at Eagle Peak within Lassen National Park, this 70-foot face climb challenges you to move confidently up a mostly clean slab that transitions rightward after the lone bolt. The rock here is characterful yet scarce with reliable placements, requiring climbers to carefully scout for pro amid the textured cracks and subtle breaks. Expect to rely on a standard rack up to 3 inches, and bring tricams to maximize holding opportunities in tight pods where cams struggle to fit. The bolt at the start provides a momentary sense of security before the climb opens up into less protected terrain, so arriving comfortable at 5.10a outdoors is crucial.

As you ascend, the rock’s aged surfaces and occasional flakes appear ready to test your judgment, making this route feel borderline PG13 in its mental demands. The climb unfolds on steep, gently angled granite, with just enough texture to tease handholds while pushing your balance and footwork. The setting picks up the cool mountain air from nearby forests, and the sparse greenery around echoes the exposed mood of the climb itself — direct, honest, and a true measure of personal focus.

Approaching King Pin requires a short but thoughtful hike from Eagle Peak’s base, following well-marked trails that traverse forest patches before opening onto the rocky face. The elevation sits comfortably high, offering crisp mountain breezes and the chance to take in sweeping views of Lassen’s rugged wilderness after your climb. Best tackled in late spring through early fall, the route avoids harsh sun during mid-mornings and evenings, giving you comfortable conditions for both climbing and belaying.

Gear-wise, expect to build some creative rack sequences. While the bolt provides a brief anchor, protection chances thin quickly: your tricam set becomes invaluable here, filling gaps that standard cams cannot. Be methodical placing your gear and stay mindful of potential pendulums if a fall occurs. This isn’t a route for beginners or the under-equipped; it’s a rewarding test for climbers ready to engage both body and mind intimately with the rock.

Overall, King Pin stands out as a straightforward but gritty challenge in the heart of Lassen’s wild landscape. It’s a climb that offers more than physical sport—here, every hold and pro placement is earned. If you come prepared with steady technique and a no-nonsense approach to protection, this line will sharpen your trad skills and leave you standing tall beneath Eagle Peak’s broad summit, ready to plan your next ascent in this expansive mountain playground.

Climber Safety

Protection options thin quickly after the initial bolt, making runouts a real consideration. Take care to place gear thoughtfully and be aware that some flake sections may feel less solid, so test placements before weighting. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet or after rain—as moisture can reduce friction on the slab and increase risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Arrive comfortable at 5.10a outdoors due to limited pro placements.

Bring a full set of tricams to cover tricky pod placements.

Start climbing mid-morning to avoid midday heat on exposed granite.

Check weather forecasts carefully—summer storms can move in quickly in Lassen.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fair but leans slightly stiff, given the sparse protection and the need for confident, precise footwork on face holds. The crux isn’t physically overpowering but requires a delicate balance of movement and gear placement. Climbers familiar with similar moderate alpine granite climbs in California, like some routes at Castle Crags, will find it a good step up in mental challenge.

Gear Requirements

One older bolt at the start, standard trad rack to 3 inches, and tricams are essential for protecting pods where cams won’t seat well.

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Tags

face climb
minimal protection
tricams recommended
single pitch
exposed
granite
high elevation
Lassen