"Kiddy Crack carves a straightforward, hand-jam friendly line in the windswept cliffs of Spanky's Playground. This accessible 25-foot trad climb offers a secure rappel anchor and a perfect intro to coastal granite climbing on Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula."
Kiddy Crack offers an approachable introduction to the rugged cliffs of Spanky's Playground, positioned on the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland. This brief, single-pitch trad climb traces a bold, clean crack framed by weathered flake features, drawing climbers upward to a modest ledge that provides a perfect belay and rappel anchor. The rock here is confident and sure under your hands, with a textured granite surface hinting at decades of wind and water shaping every edge and flake. Though short, the climb demands respect in its simplicity: the 5.5 rating reflects straightforward moves but also emphasizes precise gear placement and steady footwork.
Starting from a large boulder base, the approach is minimal, letting the climb itself speak louder. The crack’s wide mouth invites a range of hand jams and laybacking maneuvers, while the ledge at the top offers a secure spot to regroup and prepare for descent. Protection is traditional, with no bolts along the line, but bolts anchor the ledge, providing a reliable rappel point that drops you safely back to the start. This feature makes Kiddy Crack the preferred choice for climbers easing into Spanky's Playground, offering both a manageable challenge and a tactical retreat route.
Spanky's Playground is a raw, coastal wilderness area where the Atlantic air carries cold salt spray and the pine trees sway insistently against ocean-driven winds. The climb’s location on the Avalon Peninsula gives it access to beautiful, isolated views, where the ocean horizon stretches wide and wild. Days here bring cool temperatures, often quick shifts in weather, and the ever-present sound of waves challenging the shore below. Timing your climb during late spring through early fall will avoid the coldest winds and provide generally dry rock, making each hold more confident.
Because of its straightforward nature, Kiddy Crack welcomes climbers of all skill levels looking to sharpen crack climbing technique or adventure through a memorable Atlantic coastal route. It’s an ideal first route for groups visiting Newfoundland’s climbing scene, combining an easy approach, moderate physical effort, and enough exposure to deliver a satisfying taste of trad climbing. Wearing sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging and carrying a small to medium rack will prepare you well, alongside layered clothing to protect you from cool, changeable weather. Bringing extra water is always a smart move here, as natural springs are scarce and the physical effort paired with coastal winds can dry you out quickly.
In summary, Kiddy Crack is an unpretentious climb offering a clean line of granite crack climbing with a practical and safe rappel option. It suits adventurers seeking to explore Spanky's Playground with confidence and leaves room to build skill without unnecessary risk, all against the backdrop of Newfoundland’s austere coastal beauty.
Although the line is protected by traditional gear placements, climbers should carefully evaluate placements and avoid loose rock near the ledge. The rappel bolts are fixed and reliable, but always inspect before use. Be mindful of wet or mossy sections that can become slippery in damp conditions.
Start and belay from the large boulder at the base for best safety and approach comfort.
Bring layered clothing to handle coastal winds and variable weather conditions.
Plan your climb between late spring and early fall to avoid wet or icy rock.
Carry plenty of water since natural fresh sources are not available near the route.
This trad climb requires a standard rack with a variety of cams and nuts suitable for finger to hand-sized crack placements. No bolts protect the line; however, fixed bolts anchor the rappel at the ledge. Ensure your gear includes medium-sized cams for secure placement along the crack.
Upload your photos of Kiddy Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.