"A compact single-pitch trad climb offering engaging finger crack and slab challenges just right of Suds in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon. Perfect for climbers honing technical crack skills with scenic canyon views."
Kiddie Corner offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb hidden in the rugged folds of Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon. Just right of the popular Suds route, this climb stands out with its crisp hand crack that demands precise finger work and slab climbing finesse. From the start, climbers will encounter a scramble peppered with bolts that quickly lead into the heart of the line—a corner with a well-defined hand crack inviting you to embrace technical crack climbing. The crux is a measured dance between finger jams and delicate slab moves, testing your ability to balance body weight on steep, friction-dependent rock. At about 110 feet, the route culminates at chains anchored atop a sharp band of granite, providing a secure belay station with stunning views of the surrounding pinnacle and the gorge below.
Approaching from the Pat and Jack Pinnacle, expect rugged terrain typical of Yosemite’s lower canyon, with a brief but sometimes uneven trail access. The rock is high-quality granite, and protection primarily relies on a combination of cams and draws suitable for trad placements. You'll want to gear up with about 10 draws and a collection of camalots ranging from 0.5 to 1 inch to cover the variety of crack sizes and placements. Bringing a 70-meter rope is essential, as rappelling off the top is the most practical descent.
Though the average star rating is modest at 2.7, this climb provides solid technical challenges within a compact pitch, making it a worthwhile addition to your Yosemite trad climbing itinerary. Its 5.10a rating suggests some sustained tricky moves, especially on the crux, where the balance between finger crack technique and delicate slab climbing will define your success. It’s a great test for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a less trafficked spot with all the classics of Yosemite granite underfoot.
When planning your ascent, keep in mind that the Pat and Jack Pinnacle can experience direct sun exposure during midday, so early morning or late afternoon climbing will provide cooler temperatures and softer granite friction. Footwear with a solid edge and sticky rubber will help with the slab portions, while finger tape might give added confidence on the tighter jam sections. Hydration and lightweight layers are recommended, as the approach can warm up quickly.
Overall, Kiddie Corner offers a compact, purposeful climbing experience that balances technical skill with the raw beauty of Yosemite’s craggy canyon walls. It’s an ideal option for trad climbers wanting focused finger crack work away from the busiest walls yet still close enough to main valley amenities. Remember, strong technique, smart gear choices, and careful timing are the keys to fully enjoying this hidden gem of the Cascade Area.
The climb finishes at fixed chains requiring a 70m rappel—ensure your rope length is sufficient and be cautious of rope drag on the descent. The approach trail is uneven in spots; sturdy footwear and attention to footing are essential.
Start early in the day to avoid the heat on exposed granite slabs.
Wear shoes with a precise edging capability for the slab moves.
Use finger tape if your skin is sensitive to narrow cracks.
Scout the trailhead GPS at 37.72406, -119.71395 to avoid a lengthy approach.
Bring around 10 draws alongside camalots sized from 0.5 to 1.0 inches for crack placements. A 70-meter rope is required for the rappel descent off the top anchors.
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