HomeClimbingKeystone Corner

Keystone Corner: A Classic Warm-Up on Five and Dime Cliff

Yosemite Valley, California United States
trad
crack climbing
hand cracks
chimney
single pitch
Yosemite Valley
moderate
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Keystone Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Keystone Corner serves as a classic warm-up pitch on Yosemite’s Five and Dime Cliff. This single-pitch climb blends tight hand cracks, stemming cruxes, and a secure chimney finish, ideal for trad climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills in a scenic valley setting."

Keystone Corner: A Classic Warm-Up on Five and Dime Cliff

Keystone Corner offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to Yosemite Valley's renowned Five and Dime Cliff. Situated roughly 20 feet left of the main Five and Dime route, this single-pitch climb unfolds within a distinct right-facing corner. The rock formation invites hands and fists to explore cracks weaving through the left face and backing the corner, providing solid protection and a playground for varied crack climbing techniques. This pitch acts as a reliable warm-up, perfect for climbers preparing to tackle longer routes in the area.

The climb begins with an inviting crack system that demands focused hand jams and smears along featured granite shaped by the glacial forces of the Lower Merced River Canyon below. About halfway up, the climb shifts character as you transition between crack networks—this middle section, with its technical stemming, presents the route's crux. Here, climbers find momentum in balancing body position, feeling the granite pressing softly against palms and feet. Passing this section, the atmosphere opens into a short chimney that, while short, requires careful feet placement and trust in hand- and fist-sized protection placements.

Protection is generous yet rooted in tight hands to fist-sized pieces, with gear sizing varying throughout the route between finger cracks and wider jams. The chimney section offers secure placements, adding confidence toward the pitch’s conclusion. At the top, a newly bolted anchor awaits, though it lacks fixed rappel rings, encouraging climbers to either walk off the route or rappel from nearby Copper Penny anchors if they’re free.

From the outset, the approach to Keystone Corner is convenient, following established paths near Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite's iconic valley. The climb’s 80-foot length means it’s perfect for a quick technical session with minimal setup time while soaking in views of the Lower Merced River pushing steadily through the valley floor below.

This route's moderate 5.8 rating leans toward the accessible side, especially for those comfortable with traditional crack climbing techniques. While it holds solid pro placements throughout, climbers should prepare for the transition crux where stemming is key. Gear recommendations emphasize a rack stocked with cams sized from just fingers up to 2.5 inches to cover the varied crack widths and chimney placements.

Summertime and spring offer the best climbing window here, as the wall faces northeast and benefits from morning sun while staying shaded through the afternoon, keeping the granite cool and comfortable. The walk-off descent moves through easy terrain but requires attention as granite slabs can become slippery after precipitation.

Keystone Corner encapsulates the appeal of Yosemite’s granite and traditional climbing ethics. It challenges climbers to engage with the rock’s natural features while providing a satisfying, manageable route to hone protection and crack climbing skills. Its location amid one of the world’s most storied climbing areas adds an extra layer of inspiration—a chance to stand on solid rock with the Merced River murmuring direction below and Yosemite’s cliffs rising all around.

Climber Safety

Watch footing in the chimney—granite can be slick, especially after rain. Absence of rappel rings at the anchor requires careful planning for descent; avoid rappelling if unsure about access to Copper Penny anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning sun on the northeast-facing wall, avoiding afternoon heat.

Focus on stemming technique at the crux halfway up the pitch for smooth transition.

Use cams sized from fingers to 2.5 inches, with particular attention to tight hand jams.

Plan descent via walk-off to the west or rappel on Copper Penny anchors only if unoccupied.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Keystone Corner leans into an accessible difficulty for trad climbers with a solid foundation in crack technique. The crux is a stemming sequence halfway up, which slightly elevates the challenge without pushing into a stiff grade. Compared to other nearby Five and Dime climbs, this route offers a dependable warm-up with easier pro and less sustained difficulty, perfect for building confidence.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack covering from finger-sized cams up to 2.5 inches to fit the variable crack widths, including secure placements for the chimney section. New bolted anchors at the top facilitate top-outs but require walk-off descent or alternative rappel options from nearby Copper Penny anchors.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
hand cracks
chimney
single pitch
Yosemite Valley
moderate