"Keeping it Riel (Since 1885) stands out on Cascade Mountain's upper bench as an inviting sport climb blending steady technical progression and scenic alpine atmosphere. Ideal for intermediate climbers, this four-pitch route offers solid granite, reliable protection, and a memorable descent with sweeping waterfall views."
Keeping it Riel (Since 1885) offers an accessible yet rewarding sport climbing experience on the rugged upper benches of Cascade Mountain, located within the iconic Banff National Park. This route commands attention not because it pushes technical limits, but because of its steady progression, striking position, and the unyielding granite that defines this Canadian Rockies playground. Approaching from the airport parking lot near Cascade Falls, the climb invites you to shake out ropes and settle into steady footwork on Minihappi, a nearby easy 5.4 route used for the approach. From there, you begin the traverse around the north side of the waterfall, trails weaving and twisting until the rock face rises abruptly.
The climb itself stretches over four pitches totaling roughly 136 meters. Starting just left of Buffalo Hump and near a stream that constantly hums with mountain runoff, the first pitch sets a comfortable rhythm on 5.3 terrain where four well-placed bolts provide security. The granite here feels solid under hand and foot, offering a confident scramble that tasks your balance more than strength. On the second pitch, the line moves up and slants slightly right toward a substantial orange boulder, where five bolts regulate the steady gain on 5.4 terrain.
As you reach pitch three, the route shifts left to a visible bolt about ten meters ahead and then moves straight up on a slightly rightward trend. This pitch, rated 5.5, requires attention to foot placement on the varied rock texture, keeping movement fluid and deliberate. The final pitch is the crux at 5.6, maneuvering over steeper rock left of a corner. At two-thirds up, a delicate step onto a rib challenges your balance before the last powerful moves lead to the anchor. The rock here demands care—the holds are reliable but lean toward less forgiving sharp edges.
Descend by rappelling from the ring bolts, with the option to drop three meters below the last anchor and follow walk-off paths north. More adventurous climbers might rappel two additional pitches if desired, but the walk-off is straightforward and well-marked. Overall, Keeping it Riel strikes a practical balance; it is engaging enough to satisfy intermediate sport climbers while remaining accessible and safe for those gaining confidence on multi-pitch routes.
Expect variable conditions—alpine weather can shift rapidly, so prepare with layered clothing and bring sufficient water for the roughly 150 meters of steady uphill hiking and climbing. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for the scrambles and fine edging required on the upper pitches. The route’s proximity to the waterfall means you will hear the river’s constant rush, a natural companion that reminds you both of the wildness you’ve stepped into and the cooled air bathing the cliffs.
There's a simple joy here in moving efficiently across solid rock ledges and bolts well-maintained by the local community. Whether you're on a quick afternoon climb or an early morning push before the park crowds arrive, this route offers a genuine connection to the mountain terrain. It’s both a showcase of Cascade Mountain’s approachable sport climbing and an invitation to those seeking reliable, enjoyable climbing just outside Banff’s bustling core.
Approach paths near the waterfall can become slippery, especially after rain or snowmelt. Pay close attention when walking on wet rocks, and avoid loose scree on the steep sections near the climb start. During descent, rope rappels are mandatory as the rock faces drop steeply, and ring bolts serve as rappel anchors—check gear thoroughly before committing.
Park in the Cascade Falls airport parking lot for the easiest access to the approach trail.
Use the Minihappi 5.4 route as your approach to shake out ropes and warm up legs before starting the climb.
Carry layered clothing to adjust for sudden alpine weather changes and bring plenty of hydration.
Walk off north from the last rappel anchor for a straightforward route down; avoid scrambling down steep sections.
The route features four pitches primarily protected by bolts, so a standard sport rack is sufficient. A small set of additional nuts and cams can be handy for any occasional tricky placements or to supplement protection if desired.
Upload your photos of Keeping it Riel (Since 1885) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.