"Kate's Bush is a compact trad route on Bush Dome in Joshua Tree that delivers two pitches of crack climbing through grainy, textured rock. It offers an accessible challenge for intermediates seeking desert climbs with solid protection and classic Joshua Tree character."
Kate's Bush offers a straightforward but rewarding trad climb tucked within the rugged terrain of Bush Dome, just behind the iconic Mel's Diner in Joshua Tree National Park, California. The route presents two pitches over about 70 feet, gently guiding you up a crack system that reflects the raw character of the high desert. Starting at Roadside Rock, a brief walk west puts you at the base where the climb beckons from a ledge about 25 feet up. The lower pitch demands your attention with a grainy, somewhat awkward 5.8 crack—it’s the crux of the route, calling for precise footwork and steady hand jams amid rough textures. Reaching the ledge offers a natural resting point, ideal for belaying and catching your breath while soaking in the desert light.
Above, the climb transitions into a more relaxed 5.7 crack that flows smoothly, moving left along the ledge before pushing upward through clean, fun holds. The rock feels solid beneath your fingers, with the desert sun warming the surface — a reminder of Joshua Tree’s dry, sun-drenched environment. This climb rewards those ready for a modest physical test paired with a classic desert climbing experience.
Planning your ascent here means preparing with a standard rack that covers small to medium-sized protections, as placements can be straightforward but require attention to detail, especially on the lower crack’s grainy section. With only two short pitches, Kate’s Bush fits well into a half-day outing, providing space to move efficiently while still soaking in the surrounding natural quiet and open sky.
The approach is short but the landscape demands respect: scrubby bushes prick the path as the desert’s breeze presses against you, adding a tactile element to the arrival. Mel’s Diner stands as a nearby landmark, offering a quirky taste of climbing culture and a reminder of the human stories woven into these stone corridors. Early morning or late afternoon climbs here are optimal to avoid harsh sun exposure, given the wall’s southeast facing angle.
In all, Kate’s Bush is approachable for intermediate climbers hungry for a hands-on crack climb without the complexity of a multi-day adventure. It’s a spot where the desert’s elemental forces challenge your focus and skill, creating a compact but authentic Joshua Tree climbing moment.
Watch footing carefully on the lower pitch; the grainy rock can catch your shoes unevenly, and placements require deliberate checking. Also, the ledge belay must be set with attention as falling above could lead to swing hazards
Park at Roadside Rock turnout for closest access.
Belay from the ledge 25 feet up to break the climb into manageable pitches.
Choose early morning or late afternoon to avoid the desert’s midday heat.
Prepare for somewhat awkward foot placements on the lower crack’s grainy rock.
A standard trad rack suffices for Kate's Bush, with a focus on small to medium-sized cams for secure placements along the grainy lower crack and the more straightforward upper section.
Upload your photos of Kate's Bush and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.