Adventure Collective

Karma: Technical Trad Climbing in Mammoth Lakes

Mammoth Lakes, California USA
finger crack
hand crack
sloping ledge
single pitch
technical
granite
Sierra Eastside
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Karma
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Karma is a sharp, technical 80-foot trad climb that tests finger crack proficiency and smart protection placements. Located in the Mammoth Lakes area's Al's Garage, this climb is perfect for those looking for a focused single-pitch challenge in classic high Sierra granite."

Karma: Technical Trad Climbing in Mammoth Lakes

Karma offers a focused, technical trad climb perched within the rugged terrain of the Sierra Eastside near Mammoth Lakes, California. This 80-foot route demands precision and subtle finesse, especially true to its 5.10a rating. Starting on a delicate finger crack, climbers test their finger strength while feeling the granite’s texture under their fingertips. The crack narrows and guides you toward a sloping ledge leaning right—a natural pause carved into the stone where you can set reliable protection after careful evaluation. From there, the climb veers left onto an exposed face, requiring confident footwork and balance before reaching the upper section.

Here, the crack system opens again, inviting a shift back and right to meet a prominent hand crack that runs straight to the top. This section asks for controlled, committed moves that push physical limits while rewarding steady mental focus. Attempting Karma is to engage intimately with the rock, reading each feature and planning your placements with intention. The entire route benefits from a standard rack up to 2.5 inches, with gear placements that are secure but occasionally require thoughtful judgment, especially in the fingers and hands size range.

Situated in Al's Garage, a well-known climbing sector within the Mammoth Lakes area, Karma draws climbers looking for a solid single-pitch challenge in a pristine high-desert setting. The granite faces here bear the marks of constant wind and sun, creating a drier surface perfect for technical crack climbing. The approach traverses classic Sierra terrain—pine-strewn trails and granite slabs that prepare you mentally for the precision demanded above.

Optimal timing for Karma falls within late spring through early fall when the weather delivers crisp, dry conditions. Morning climbs benefit from cooler rock temperatures and ample sun exposure on the climb’s vertical surfaces. Be prepared with shoes that can comfortably handle finger cracks and a rack that allows for careful protection placement.

Safety is paramount. The thin cracks can cause runners to feel marginal, so double-check your placements and avoid relying solely on smaller pieces. A cautious approach on the sloping ledge is key, as the transitions here can unsettle balance if rushed. Once at the summit, the descent is straightforward—climbers typically walk off via a short scramble back to the base, but familiarizing yourself with the exit trail is advised to avoid loose terrain.

Karma’s blend of delicate finger crack techniques, calculated protection, and exposed face climbing creates a compelling route for trad climbers seeking to refine their crack skills without committing to multiple pitches. It’s a climb that delivers immediate, concentrated reward in the heart of one of California’s finest granite climbing areas.

Climber Safety

Placements in the finger crack require careful assessment as some runners can feel marginal. The sloping ledge demands deliberate movement to maintain balance—avoid rushing this section. Watch for loose rock near the top transitioning to the hand crack.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Morning climbs offer cooler rock and ideal sun exposure.

Check gear placements carefully on thin finger cracks to avoid runner slippage.

Wear shoes suited for narrow cracks and delicate edging.

Familiarize yourself with the walk-off descent trail to avoid loose scree.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade here feels true to form with a subtle crux occurring on the transition from finger crack to the face left of the ledge. While the pitch is short, the sustained technical demands elevate the effort. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like Dharma will find Karma slightly harder due to tighter crack widths and more delicate face moves.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard rack from small cam units up to 2.5 inches. Smaller sizes see frequent use in the finger and hand cracks, and placements are mostly solid but require attention to detail.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
sloping ledge
single pitch
technical
granite
Sierra Eastside