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Just Under The Wire: A Trad Climb in Owens River Gorge

Bishop, California United States
finger crack
slab
trad
single pitch
granite
traverse
Owens River Gorge
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Just Under The Wire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Just Under The Wire blends steep slab and finger crack climbing in a compact trad pitch within Owens River Gorge. With solid granite and a mix of bolts and gear placements, it offers a practical introduction to trad lines in California’s Eastern Sierra."

Just Under The Wire: A Trad Climb in Owens River Gorge

Just Under The Wire offers climbers a unique blend of challenge and character tucked into the rugged walls of Owens River Gorge near Bishop, California. This single-pitch trad route, stretching approximately 90 feet, delivers an engaging start with a steep slab punctuated by two bolts that demand thoughtful footwork and precise balance. The slab section quickly gives way to a 5.8 finger crack, offering a more traditional experience for those comfortable with gear placements in tighter fissures. Though the upper half of the pitch doesn’t reach the heights of classic climbing, it holds interest with an option to traverse right at a natural weakness to join the lines of Electric Kachina, leading climbers to familiar anchors and a smoother finish. Staying on the face left of the corner adds a bit of risk but rewards with solitude and a more committing 5.8R rating.

The rock here carries a rough-edged personality — gritty granite that, while somewhat inconsistent, offers solid texture and secure holds on good sections. Climbers will appreciate the crisp mountain air and the expansive views across the Owens River as the wall faces east, catching morning sun. With moderate access from well-marked trails, the approach moves through open scrub and pine, setting the scene for a climb that balances adventure with accessibility.

In terms of protection, the route requires a selective rack that includes gear from small to gold Camalots. The two fixed bolts on the slab provide security for the initial moves, but beyond that, placements are mostly on smaller pro, emphasizing finger-sized cams and nuts. This gear setup rewards careful preparation and makes it an excellent line for climbers sharpening their trad skills in thin cracks and slab moves.

While the route lacks the high-octane thrills found on some Owens River Gorge climbs, it holds appeal for those seeking a short, focused challenge with a straightforward approach and descent. It pairs well with other neighboring routes, allowing for a solid day out in a classic climbing area renowned for its dry climate and consistent rock quality. Being vigilant around the traversing section is important, as exposed face climbing here demands good rope management and confidence in protecting ledges.

Prepare for early starts to enjoy cooler temperatures and less crowded trails. Footwear with sticky rubber and a well-fitting helmet are musts given the possibility of loose rock near the slab. Hydration is key as the high desert sun can sap energy even through spring and fall seasons. Finally, respect the route’s moderate risks and bring conservative judgment when exploring the more exposed variants. In total, Just Under The Wire serves up a modest but engaging climb that provides a valuable slice of Owens Gorge’s granite alongside practical climbing insights.

Climber Safety

Beware of loose rock near the slab section and maintain cautious protection placements on the face traverse, where runouts increase the risk. A helmet is strongly recommended, and attentive belaying is essential to guard against rope drag on the traverse.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy fresher rock conditions.

Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams and a few nuts.

Practice careful rope management on the tricky traverse to Electric Kachina anchors.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for the slab and face sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Just Under The Wire offers a caveat: while the initial slab is well-protected, the rating feels slightly stiff due to the delicate face moves and finger crack demands. The traverse section adds a runout quality that pushes the overall commitment, making it a good step for climbers transitioning from moderate to harder trad routes in the area.

Gear Requirements

Two bolts secure the initial slab section before transitioning to finger crack placements requiring protection sized from small to gold Camalots. Prepare for mostly thin gear placements with a focus on finger-sized cams.

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Tags

finger crack
slab
trad
single pitch
granite
traverse
Owens River Gorge