"Just Another 5.9 offers a grounded crack climb on Ophir Wall with subtle moves and thoughtful gear placements. Ideal for trad climbers honing their skills, this route presents a practical challenge amidst the rugged Telluride landscape."
Just Another 5.9 provides a straightforward yet engaging crack climb that sits just to the left of the more frequented Crescent Loon on Ophir Wall. This single-pitch trad route covers 90 feet of varied crack climbing woven through a gully framed by weathered Colorado sandstone. After a spring storm left much of the crag slick and damp, this route stood out as the only reliably dry option, offering a welcome challenge for climbers seeking to test finger jams and gear placements without an intimidating crux. The initial moves can be approached two ways: start on the right with classic traditional gear placements for a gentler introduction, or step left to clip two bolts at the start for a more strenuous opening sequence. Both offer a rewarding experience, with the harder start demanding confidence in technique and the easier start asking for careful gear management amid the crack system.
The route unfolds along a crack that invites careful consideration for protection. Doubles to 0.75 cam sizes serve well here, and although singles in the #1, #2, and #3 sizes are possible, doubling up on those pieces would provide better security against the occasional runout sections. Vegetation and loose stone require a bit of 'gardening' along some placements, encouraging climbers to engage actively with the rock rather than expecting perfect pro opportunities. A double-length sling anchored around a horn picked up near the crux above helps protect more exposed moves.
The climb's setting within the Ophir Wall offers not just solid rock but a glance at the broader Telluride/Norwood area’s rugged landscape. The gully gently channels wind and light, creating a microenvironment where dry conditions often linger longer than elsewhere on the wall. Though steeper and more strenuous moderate climbs exist nearby, Just Another 5.9 has earned its spot as a reliable, approachable line for those honing trad crack skills or scouting moderate trad options in the region.
Preparation-wise, shoes with sticky rubber and good smear ability will aid secure footwork on the sandstone’s variable edges and face holds. Given the route’s potential to hold water after a storm, timing your climb for the drier parts of the day or late spring to summer ensures the best friction and comfort. Hydration remains vital; the trail access skirts open forest, where sparse shade demands a refill before the climb. Finally, a calm, attentive approach makes all the difference on a route where gear placements are creative and a well-planned rack will boost confidence.
In essence, Just Another 5.9 invites climbers to engage precisely with the rock and its protection challenges while offering a taste of the Ophir Wall’s character. It’s a route that may not dazzle with flashy moves but rewards focused effort, making it a worthwhile addition to your Colorado trad portfolio.
The climb’s protection includes some runout sections where placements can be tricky and require cleaning or gardening. Loose rock and occasional vegetation mean extra vigilance is necessary in placements, and climbers should be prepared for runouts above the mid-point.
Approach after early spring storms to find the driest climb in the area.
Use sticky rubber shoes for consistent friction on sandstone edges.
Bring doubles in mid-sized cams to secure runout sections.
Carry extra slings for creative placements around horns.
Doubles to 0.75 cams are recommended, with singles in #1, #2, and #3 sizes; however, bringing doubles in those sizes improves safety. Some creative placements are necessary, including gardening loose rock and using extended slings for runner placements on horns in runout sections.
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