HomeClimbingJump to Light Speed

Jump to Light Speed

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
splitter crack
stemming
arete jug
trad gear intensive
single pitch
Squamish granite
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jump to Light Speed
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jump to Light Speed weaves through a blend of low-angled corners and steep stemming before rewarding climbers with a splitter crack that narrows to a technical slab. Offering a satisfying trad challenge in the heart of Squamish, this route balances exposure, gear variety, and classic granite climbing."

Jump to Light Speed

Jump to Light Speed at Shannon Falls Wall presents a bold yet accessible trad climb that threads its way through varied features, making it a rewarding challenge for intermediate to advanced climbers. The route climbs a low-angled corner that quickly shifts into steep stemming moves, demanding balance and foot precision before granting access to a solid jug resting on the arete. As you press upward, the line offers a splitter crack, a finger-and-hand seam that rewards patient technique, slowly narrowing toward the top where a final slab move awaits. This transition requires controlled finesse — your footwork and body tension become paramount as you negotiate the thinning crack and smooth slab surface.

Set on the rock face just above the bustling hub of Squamish, this 150-foot pitch commands quiet about the natural character of the wall—exposed enough to catch fresh breezes from the surrounding rainforest but sheltered by towering granite shoulders. The sound of distant falls merges with calls from fellow climbers atop the Skywalker traverse belay station, located near the route’s anchor. Finding that station is crucial for descent, as two rappels of 20 to 25 meters each will return you safely to the base.

Protection is straightforward but demands a thoughtful rack. Start with smaller gear like Metolius purple TCU nuts, moving up to #3 Camalots, with doubles in the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot size recommended to protect the varying widths of the crack and stemming sections. While no fixed bolts interrupt the traditional line until the rappel anchor at the top, careful placement and sound judgment in gear placement ensure confidence throughout the climb.

This climb is a standout for its clear exposure with manageable technical elements—perfect when the weather cooperates, which is generally late spring through early fall in this coastal temperate zone. Dry conditions not only improve friction for the slab finish but also ease the approach, which is brief but sometimes slick with moss and damp leaves. Good hiking footwear at the base, and sticky climbing shoes for the wall, are essential for the best experience. Hydration and timing your ascent to avoid the afternoon crowd near the popular Skywalker traverse help maintain flow and focus.

Jump to Light Speed offers more than just physical climbing—it invites you into a moment suspended between granite and forest, where the river of climbers above moves in rhythms tested by the elements and the rock itself. With clear logistics, solid gear advice, and a route that balances challenge with straightforward execution, it’s a must-try for those seeking a taste of Squamish’s classic granite lines beyond the craze of the usual circuits.

Climber Safety

Watch for damp patches on the approach and slab topout, which can reduce friction. Careful gear placements in the stemming corner and crack section are critical as the rock texture can be smooth in places. Avoid the climb after heavy rain to prevent slips and loose debris on the descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail can be slippery when wet—wear sturdy hiking shoes.

Start early to avoid congestion near Skywalker traverse belay.

Pack hydration; the climb demands steady energy despite moderate length.

Check weather; slab finish is best dry for optimal friction.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating feels true to its grade with a clear crux in the slab finish where balance and precise foot placement push the difficulty. The stemming section serves as an engaging lead-in without overly taxing strength, making this a moderately challenging climb that rewards clean technique. Climbers experienced with local Squamish granite will find it approachable yet offering a solid test distinct from nearby sport-heavy lines.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard trad rack starting with small nuts (Metolius purple TCU) up to larger cams (#3 Camalot); doubles advised between yellow TCU and #1 Camalot sizes for secure protection on diverse crack widths and stemming sections.

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Tags

splitter crack
stemming
arete jug
trad gear intensive
single pitch
Squamish granite