"Jugular Vein offers a focused, single-pitch trad and sport route that challenges your crack jamming skills and technical face climbing in British Columbia’s Sea to Sky region. With a sharp crux bookending smoother climbing, this climb delivers both mental and physical engagement in a compact package."
Jugular Vein offers climbers a compact but technical ascent that balances crack climbing with bolted face moves, set against the raw beauty of British Columbia’s Sea to Sky corridor. From the start, the approach challenges you to find solid footing on low-angle rock before reaching a ledge that serves as a natural staging point — a quiet pause before the climb’s physical demands take hold. The route opens with a right-facing layback corner that quickly transforms into a series of crack jams, testing your technique and gear placement skills with protections up to 3.5 inches. As the crack fades, the climb shifts character: you move right onto a featured face, relying on a sequence of bolt-protected holds, offering a change of pace and rhythm. The climb’s crescendo lies in its opening and finishing moves, which require sharp focus and precise movement, demanding a combination of strength and finesse. Intermediate sections ease off just enough to catch your breath and appreciate the textures of the rock and the subtle sound of wind threading through the trees. Gear is straightforward, with a mix of cams complemented by well-maintained bolts—placing protection here feels thoughtful rather than frantic. Jugular Vein invites climbers to engage fully with the rock, blending the mental game of trad placements with the confident protection of bolts. Located in the larger Sea to Sky region, the setting rewards with sweeping views of coastal mountains and glimpses of the turquoise waters carved by fjords below. This single-pitch route, at just 120 feet, packs dense climbing into a manageable outing, perfect for those seeking a taste of trad trad-sport fusion or looking to sharpen crack skills with a safety net. Approach takes about 10 to 15 minutes on firm trails that demand steady footing but no bushwhacking. Weather-wise, early summer to early fall offers the best conditions, as the rock dries quickly in sunlight, essential for secure jams and foot placements. Given the mix of natural gear and bolts, climbers should bring a standard rack with cams ranging from finger sizes up to 3.5 camalots and several draws for the bolted sections. Descending is straightforward with a single rappel from chains just above the final bolt, though checking the sling and anchors before lowering is always wise. Jugular Vein stands out as a practical challenge: enough cruxes to keep you alert without overwhelming, combined with a route quality that makes every move count. It's not just a climb but an engagement with the rock’s personality, poised between deliberate effort and moments of flow.
Approach and climb with care on the low-angle scramble, which can be slippery when wet. The final anchor chains are reliable, but inspect old bolts nearby to avoid confusion during your final movements. Avoid climbing soon after rain to prevent slick footholds and unstable jam placements.
Start scrambling early to secure the gear belay ledge—this also warms up fingers and legs.
Focus on crack technique early; secure jams set the tone for smoother transitions onto the bolts.
Check the hangerless old bolt near the top but rely on the chain station for your final anchor.
Approach in dry conditions to ensure rock and crack jams hold well and shoes stay sticky.
Bring a set of cams from finger sizes through #3 or 3.5 Camalot, alongside quickdraws for five well-spaced bolts protecting the face section. The crack portion allows solid gear placements, while bolts offer confidence on steeper moves.
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