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Jory's Glory: A Bold Trad Challenge at Hassler Crag

Hassler, Canada
layback
roof climb
tight squeeze
single pitch
trad gear
Northern BC
top anchors
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jory's Glory
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jory's Glory delivers a compelling mix of technical laybacks, tight roof squeezes, and a challenging crux on a single pitch at Hassler Crag. Ideal for trad climbers up for a precise and bold 5.10c route amid the wild beauty of Northern British Columbia."

Jory's Glory: A Bold Trad Challenge at Hassler Crag

Perched on the rugged face of Hassler Crag in Northern British Columbia, Jory's Glory offers a focused single-pitch trad climb that demands both technique and grit. From the moment you place your hands on the initial layback section, the rock’s texture invites firm grips while your body negotiates the tension of the move. Soon, the route tightens into a narrow squeeze, challenging your flexibility and control as the roof above dares you to push forward. The climb’s midpoint presents a crux that tests your endurance and route reading, where precise footwork and patience are crucial to moving past the toughest sequence.

This route thrives in its clean, exposed setting where the air is crisp and the surrounding wilderness hums quietly beyond the ledge. The granite’s cold surface contrasts with the heat of your effort, and the quiet of the forest below feels like nature is holding its breath, bearing witness to every move. Protection consists of solid placements accommodating gear up to 2 inches, complemented by two reliable top-bolted anchors, creating a secure framework to focus on the climb rather than second-guessing your safety.

Though Jory's Glory is short, it offers a compact punch of diverse climbing elements—from the initial layback that asks for upper-body engagement, through the squeeze requiring core strength, to the demanding roof move that rewards precision and commitment. The climb’s 5.10c rating fits neatly into the upper-intermediate trad category, pushing climbers familiar with the grade to refine their technique and mental game.

Getting to the base of Hassler Crag involves navigating relatively rugged wilderness trails typical of Northern BC’s remote landscape. The approach rewards climbers with serene forest sounds and the refreshing scent of pine, setting the mood long before the first move. Timing your climb for late morning or early afternoon lets the sun warm the rock without overheating, and cooler seasons provide increased friction but demand layered clothing.

For those packing gear, a rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts is ideal, with a particular emphasis on pieces that fit 2-inch cracks comfortably. The two top anchors simplify the descent, allowing a straightforward rappel back to the ground.

Jory's Glory is a compact yet demanding route that offers a slice of Northern BC’s wild climbing scene. It’s a route that rewards boldness and precision, with enough variety to keep your focus sharp from bottom to top. If you’re seeking a trad challenge away from the crowds, this climb delivers a raw and rewarding experience where the rock pushes back and the environment commands respect.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the roof climb where protection can be tricky; ensure secure placements as falls here could be strenuous. The small ledge below offers a moment to rest, but the approach involves uneven terrain warranting careful footing both before and after the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach trails are rugged; wear supportive hiking boots and allow extra time for the hike in.

Late morning or early afternoon offers the best sunlight and rock temperature for climbing.

Friction improves in cooler weather, but layer accordingly to stay warm before and after the climb.

Double-check your gear placements on the roof section, as the crux demands stable protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10c, Jory’s Glory provides a solid challenge that leans on technical moves rather than raw power. The mid-route crux bumps the effort, requiring controlled footwork and precise body positioning. While the grade feels on point for upper-intermediate climbers, the route can feel stiffer than other nearby climbs due to the demanding roof and tight squeeze sections.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focused on placements up to 2 inches, including cams and nuts. Two bolted top anchors make this easy to rappel or lower off after the climb.

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Tags

layback
roof climb
tight squeeze
single pitch
trad gear
Northern BC
top anchors