"Jolie Star offers a focused trad climb on an exposed dihedral just beyond Quebec City. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills on solid granite, this route balances complexity with straightforward gear placements in a stunning wilderness setting."
Jolie Star invites climbers to engage with an unyielding dihedral on a prominent wall in Quebec's Southern Area, just a short journey from Quebec City. This single-pitch trad route demands precise footwork and confident crack climbing, offering a direct connection with the rock’s natural features. The initial dihedral climb tests your balance and strength, leading to a small ledge where the route takes a subtle detour: a brief traverse to the right before resuming the ascent. This move offers a moment to gather composure, the air around you crisp, the rock cold to the touch.
Just beyond, a large flake presents a fork in the road. The easier paddle veers left and around, maintaining steady but manageable climbing. However, for those eager to push their limits, bypassing the flake by climbing the crack straight up to the Ginger belay introduces a more sustained challenge. This variant demands greater endurance and precise placement of natural protection to maximize safety and efficiency.
The granite here is formidable and demands respect—each hold requires focus, each placement deliberate. Natural pro placement is essential, testing your ability to read the rock and secure reliable anchors in an environment where fixed protection is absent. Jolie Star is not a climb for the faint-hearted; expect measured effort with a payoff of uninterrupted exposure and striking views of Charlevoix’s rugged landscape.
Approaching from Lac Long, the trail is straightforward but no less an introduction to the day ahead. The rock faces rise sharply against the open sky, and the atmosphere carries the quiet hum of the surrounding forest. Expect variable sun exposure, with partial shade shielding the climb during midday hours. Weather in this region can shift quickly, so prepare with layered clothing and bring plenty of water for the approach and climb.
For the descent, downclimbing is possible but requires caution—solid footing and route memory are critical. Alternatively, rappelling from fixed or natural anchors at the belay offers a safer exit. This route is a gem for climbers seeking a clean crack climb in a setting that balances challenge with accessibility. With solid technique and adequate gear, Jolie Star provides a memorable experience steeped in the raw character of Quebec’s rock.
Whether you’re approaching from Quebec City for a day of focused climbing or using Jolie Star as part of a larger adventure in the Southern Area, meticulous preparation pays off. Pay attention to the natural rhythm of the route, respecting the holds and placements, and your efforts will be rewarded by both the climb and the quiet grandeur of the landscape.
Protection relies entirely on natural gear placements, meaning climbers must be vigilant with placements in the crack and flakes. The traverse at the ledge can be exposed, so secure anchors before committing to the move. Weather can change rapidly, so keep an eye on forecasts and avoid climbing on wet rock.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the wall and to have cooler temperatures for crack climbing.
Bring a full rack of cams ranging from small to mid sizes to handle the variable crack widths.
Hydrate well before the approach—the trail from Lac Long is moderate but can feel longer in warm weather.
Plan your descent carefully; rappelling is recommended if you’re not confident with the downclimb.
Natural protection only; expect to place a variety of cams and nuts in cracks and flakes. No fixed anchors are present, so be prepared to trust your placements and double-check your gear during the climb.
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