Jo Mora Wall: A Beginner-Friendly Crack Climbing Experience Near Colorado Springs

Colorado Springs, Colorado
crack climbing
beginner friendly
east facing
finger crack
steep
single pitch
morning sun
trad training
Length: 30-50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Old Stage Road area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jo Mora Wall delivers a rare chance for beginner trad climbers to sharpen their crack technique near Colorado Springs. With accessible grades, varied crack styles, and an inviting morning sun, this compact, east-facing crag is both friendly and practical—ideal for those eager to learn."

Jo Mora Wall: A Beginner-Friendly Crack Climbing Experience Near Colorado Springs

Jo Mora Wall offers a unique gateway into the world of traditional crack climbing at the edge of Colorado Springs—a rare treat in a region where beginner-friendly trad destinations are in short supply. This east-facing crag is perched at 8,382 feet along the Old Stage Road corridor, set amidst the quiet beauty of Colorado’s forested hills. What the wall lacks in sheer height it compensates for with steep angles and an array of crack styles that make every ascent an immersive lesson in technique and nerve.

The heart of Jo Mora’s appeal is its role as a learning ground—a place for climbers to discover the subtleties of crack climbing in a supportive setting. The rock, reminiscent of Turkey Rock and even likened to Carmel By the Sea in spots, makes for exciting routes that emphasize skill development over brute strength. Here, jamming isn’t just possible—it’s encouraged, and you’ll find everything from tips and fingers, to ring locks, thin hands, solid hand cracks, cups, and even those wild butterfly stacks when you’re feeling adventurous. Face features are liberally scattered, providing confidence for newcomers and opportunities for creative movement.

With easy grades spread across the wall, Jo Mora welcomes climbers who want to practice jamming without the intimidation factor of bigger or more notorious trad venues. The welcoming vibe is underscored by the wall’s approachable height—routes are generally single pitch, so you’re never too far from the ground. The overall atmosphere is laid back but purposeful, catering to those eager to build skills before tackling steeper grades or longer pitches elsewhere.

Getting to Jo Mora Wall is straightforward, making it a solid choice for early starts and morning outings. Approach by following the Keith Haring base area trail until you hit the route named 'Safe Sex.' From there, turn right and follow a line of cairns weaving through talus. Within just a couple of minutes, you’ll pop out at the base of the wall, with crisp morning sun lighting up the east-facing stone. It’s an environment that feels both welcoming and practical—minimal bushwhacking, ample daylight, and a trail that’s easy to retrace back to your car.

While Jo Mora Wall doesn’t boast the highest cliffs around, its classics draw local climbers looking for quality and variety in a more intimate setting. 'The Evolution of the Cowboy' (5.8) and 'Carmel By the Sea' (5.10a) are both favorites, each earning plenty of praise for their creative movement and rock quality. ‘Scratching A Twister’ (5.10c), perhaps the standout, garners high marks for its engaging crack sequences and stands as a must-try for anyone aiming to test their skills at a higher grade.

The real magic of a day at Jo Mora Wall comes from the hands-on experience: learning to place gear, trusting jams, and savoring the morning sun. While the grades are approachable, the routes are steep enough to encourage proper technique, ensuring every climber leaves a little sharper than when they arrived. The overall route count isn’t huge, but the diversity here means you can spend a full day exploring cracks of every shape, adapting and improving with each new line.

For those new to trad, the need for a standard rack—particularly with units covering everything from thin fingers to fists—can’t be overstated. Many of the cracks widen and narrow unpredictably, making a flexible gear selection essential for safe and stress-free climbing. Though the rock quality is mostly solid, a careful eye is still a must, especially if you’re venturing off the more frequently traveled classics.

Jo Mora Wall is at its best in spring and early fall, when the East-facing aspect catches the gentle light without baking in the midday heat. Early starts are rewarded with solitude, reliable friction, and a golden glow that lights up the cracks. With the sun moving overhead by midday, shade seekers might want to shift plans or tackle the approach before the heat picks up.

For Colorado Springs locals and travelers alike, Jo Mora Wall is an ideal venue to hone your crack climbing chops at a friendly grade and escape the crowds. Seasoned trad leaders will enjoy dialing in their jamming game, while beginners will find a supportive stage to learn the ropes. If you’re searching for a trad playground where steep stone and sunny vibes go hand-in-hand, Jo Mora delivers.

Climber Safety

Keep a lookout for inconsistent rock quality in select areas—though most routes are solid, less-traveled lines may have loose blocks or sections needing extra care. Arrive early to avoid both heat and afternoon thunderstorms common in summer months. Always double-check your protection, particularly on routes with variable crack widths.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length30-50 feet

Local Tips

Beat the crowds and catch ideal conditions by arriving early for that prime morning sun.

Follow cairns and the straightforward talus trail to reach the wall in just a couple of minutes from the 'Safe Sex' marker.

Double-check protection placements on less-traveled routes, especially where rock quality shifts.

Bring extra water—while the approach is short, the sun can heat up fast on the east face.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Jo Mora Wall is known for its relatively approachable grades that invite developing trad climbers to experiment without feeling sandbagged. Grades are on the friendlier side compared to testpiece destinations nearby, making it a forgiving place to focus on technique. If you’ve struggled with steep local standards like Turkey Rock, you’ll find the lines here more accommodating but still instructive.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack covering all sizes from thin fingers to fists. The variety of crack sizes calls for flexible gear choices, so consider supplementing with specialty pieces if you want to practice butterfly stacks or ring locks. Face features throughout offer extra security for those still growing comfortable with jamming.

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Tags

crack climbing
beginner friendly
east facing
finger crack
steep
single pitch
morning sun
trad training