"Rising 70 feet from Little Lake's edge, Jenny's Crack is a demanding trad climb that combines technical crack moves with a lakeside setting. Its unique start from a belay ledge and roof crack section offers a mix of challenge and natural beauty perfect for trad climbers looking to test their gear and skills."
Jenny's Crack presents a striking challenge just north of Six Mile Marina, on the northern tip of the peninsula in Little Lake near Port Severn. This single-pitch trad climb rises 70 feet directly from the water’s edge, giving it a distinct personality shaped by its aquatic surroundings. The ascent begins on a broad ledge tucked at the crack’s base, providing a stable spot for your belay and a moment to tune in to the lake’s gentle lapping and the fresh, pine-scented air.
From there, the route pushes upwards through a prominent crack system that demands precise gear placement and steady technique. The lower section tests your ability to manage larger cams—the #1 and #2 sizes are essential here, especially to secure the climb’s roof feature, where the crack flares widely. As you gain height, smaller pieces will protect the upper moves, culminating at a comfortable belay anchored by two bolts with expansive views over the quiet lake basin.
The rock’s character—solid granite with occasional rough texture—provides reliable holds, but the route is not without its subtleties. The 5.10c rating hints at a crux towards the roof where strength and control are critical. For climbers familiar with local Muskoka Lakes terrain, Jenny's Crack offers a step up in technical challenge compared to easier cracks in the area. It rewards those who come prepared with a mix of skill and respect for its exposed, lakeside position.
Getting to Jenny’s Crack is straightforward yet calls for attention to timing. Approaching from Six Mile Marina, the trail is short but can be slippery after rains. A morning start is advisable to avoid the heat reflecting off the water and rock later in the day. Be mindful of local wildlife and keep the area clean to maintain this quiet gem’s natural balance.
The climb’s proximity to water means humid air and occasional gusts that animate the trees, giving the climb a living soundtrack. The green of the surrounding forest frames the granite face like a natural gallery, exposing only the essentials that you need to focus on the rock and your movement. The blend of solitude and accessible challenge makes Jenny's Crack an appealing destination for trad climbers aiming to hone their crack climbing skills in a striking setting.
Prepare for your climb with well-fitted crack gloves and shoes that grip both slab and edges. Hydration and a light windbreaker come in handy, as conditions can shift quickly near the lakeshore. Whether you’re coming from the Toronto region or further afield, this route offers a raw slice of Ontario’s climbing culture with enough challenges to keep you engaged and rewarded.
The granite is solid but the proximity to water means the base can be damp or slippery, especially after rain. Secure your belay on the ledge and double-check all cam placements in the roof section as the hold angles can be deceptive. Be cautious of loose debris near the top anchors.
Start early to avoid hot, reflective sun on the rock and lake surface.
Bring crack gloves to protect your hands and improve grip.
Watch for slippery patches on the approach trail after rain.
Use a light windbreaker for variable lakeshore breezes.
The bottom roof section requires larger cams (#1 and #2) for secure placements, while smaller cams protect the upper crack. Two bolts anchor the top belay for safe descent or top-rope setups.
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