5.8, Trad
Donner Summit
California ,United States
"Jellyroll Arch on Grouse Slab is a must-do two-pitch trad climb at Donner Summit combining delicate slab moves and crack climbing beneath a distinctive diagonal roof. This 5.8 route offers a balanced day out with scenic views and engaging protection challenges."
Towering above the I-80 corridor at Donner Summit, Jellyroll Arch offers a compelling trad climbing experience on the east face of Grouse Slab. This straightforward yet character-rich two-pitch route, stretching approximately 200 feet, invites climbers into an interplay of slab climbing, crack negotiation, and a memorable traverse beneath a striking diagonal roof—aptly called The Arch. The granite here is worn smooth in places, requiring careful footwork and an attentive eye for gear placements. From the base, you’ll begin on blocks beneath the terminus of the Arch, moving into a leftward traverse that calls for steady balance and precise crack protection. The climbing is moderate but engaging, rated 5.8, with pockets of easier climbing through 5.5 to 5.6 above the roof.
As you round the corner beyond the traverse, the route opens into cracks that demand deliberate hand and finger jams. Protection can feel sparse in spots, demanding both confidence and strategic gear placement, though a full rack including cams up to 3 inches will cover what’s needed. Anticipate some runout sections but no unmanageable risk—the rock quality and built-up protection opportunities reward patient gear work. After topping out the crack system, a tree belay anchors the pitch before the descent south.
The approach is straightforward from the well-known Grouse Slab area. Expect 45-60 minutes on a relatively clear, granite-strewn trail gaining elevation steadily but without technical challenge. The granite surface and sweeping views toward Lake Tahoe and the Sierra crest create an immersive outdoor setting with a hint of alpine wilderness, though the route’s proximity to the highway means you’re never far from civilization.
This climb strikes an appealing balance: it’s a solid challenge for trad climbers stepping up from beginner routes and an engaging day outing for those seeking a scenic yet technically approachable slab experience. Best tackled in spring through fall when dry conditions ensure reliable friction. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential here to maintain confidence on the slab moves, and consistent hydration will keep energy levels steady during the moderate exertion.
Post-climb, the rappel or downclimb south from the tree belay is straightforward but demands caution on slab surfaces that can become slick when wet. The setting sun often casts a warm glow on the east face late in the day, making late afternoon climbs especially memorable. With close to 150 votes and an average rating of 3.4 stars, Jellyroll Arch continues to draw trad climbers eager for a classic route with just enough challenge to reward focus and technique.
While the protection is adequate for experienced trad climbers, the route has several runout sections where poor gear placement can become risky. The slab surfaces can be slippery when damp, so avoid climbing after rain or early morning dew. The descent requires attention to footing, especially when downclimbing south from the tree belay.
Start early to avoid warming slab surfaces by midday.
Sticky-soled climbing shoes are essential for slab friction.
Hydrate well—expect moderate exertion over 200 feet of climbing.
Descend south from the tree belay using a rappel or cautious downclimb.
Bring a full set of stoppers and cams up to 3 inches. The route can feel runout but is well protected with careful placements. Small 2-3 inch cams are particularly useful for the crack and roof sections.
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