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Jelly Fish: Technical Trad Climb on Jellystone Southwest Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
chimney
stem move
small gear
desert climb
single pitch
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jelly Fish
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jelly Fish challenges trad climbers with delicate cracks and a technical chimney on the southwest face of Jellystone. This single-pitch, 60-foot climb delivers precise gear placements and a memorable stem finish, right in the heart of Joshua Tree’s rugged granite landscape."

Jelly Fish: Technical Trad Climb on Jellystone Southwest Face

Jelly Fish offers a focused, gritty trad climb on the southwest face of Jellystone, situated in the Lost Horse area of Joshua Tree National Park. From the first step on the ledge, just a ten-foot rise from the ground, this route demands precise footwork and an eye for subtle gear placements. The climb begins with two parallel cracks running through a quiet corner, lying a short six feet right of the more popular Jelly Doughnut route. These cracks challenge your ability to finger jam and layback with steady commitment for about 35 feet.

At the chimney’s threshold, the climb opens briefly into a horizontal crack running along the right wall. This feature invites a careful traverse that requires balance and strong heel hooks to inch toward a ledge sitting beneath a distinct, left-facing corner. The final section tests your nerve and technique as you stem upwards, where leads get interesting and exposure sharpens. The top rewards with sweeping views across Joshua Tree’s sprawling boulder fields, the park’s arid wind sweeping through the granite like a living force.

Gear choices center around delicate placements — small wires, especially the smallest Black Diamond C3s in pink and gray, are essential here. Medium cams add security, particularly for anchoring a top-rope setup with a long cordelette. Protection isn’t abundant, so skimming the cracks with precision and knowing when to commit is critical.

Access to the route is straightforward, located on the southwest aspect which sees warming afternoon sun and cooling shade late in the day. The Desert’s heat demands early starts in spring and fall to avoid peak temperatures. A short approach through low desert scrub leads climbers quickly to the base, with GPS coordinates available to ease navigation.

Descending is typically done by a single rappel off a fixed anchor or careful downclimb for those comfortable with exposed terrain. Conditions in Joshua Tree call for attentive footwear and hydration planning — the rocky approach and climb combined with summer heat can quickly sap reserves.

Jelly Fish is a practical, no-nonsense route for trad climbers seeking a brief but rewarding challenge in one of California’s iconic climbing spots. Its technical demands and desert setting offer a pure experience that balances adventure with the grounded realities of crack climbing in high desert granite.

Climber Safety

Protection opportunities are limited and gear placements require precision, making fall potential higher if hesitation occurs. The ledge start is low but exposed, so double-check your anchor setups and stay mindful of the desert heat and dehydration risk on the approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the southwest face.

Bring extra small wires for tricky placements in the parallel cracks.

Hydrate thoroughly before the climb — desert air can dry you out quickly.

Use approach shoes with sticky rubber for the rocky, uneven terrain to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- PG13 rating fits well with the route’s technical nature: it’s not excessively hard but demands thoughtful gear placement and committed moves, especially through the chimney and stem. The grade is on the soft side for experienced climbers but the exposed stem section adds an exciting crux that rewards attention and steady nerves.

Gear Requirements

Small wires including the tiniest Black Diamond C3s (pink & gray) are essential, coupled with small to medium cams. A long cordelette is recommended for setting up a top-rope anchor.

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Tags

finger crack
chimney
stem move
small gear
desert climb
single pitch