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Jelly Belly: The One-Move Roof Challenge at Indian Rock

Berkeley, California United States
finger crack
roof crux
short route
sport climbing
top-rope friendly
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jelly Belly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jelly Belly offers a concentrated climb packed with a memorable 5.10a roof sequence just steps from San Francisco Bay. This short, sharp route tests finger strength and technique in a straightforward, well-protected setting ideal for both sport and top-rope climbers."

Jelly Belly: The One-Move Roof Challenge at Indian Rock

Jelly Belly stands out at Indian Rock, a compact crag within the San Francisco Bay Area, offering a brief but thrilling sport climb that catches your attention easily. Though just a single pitch of 30 feet, this route delivers a concentrated burst of climbing energy featuring a sharp 5.10a move that demands both finger strength and precise body positioning. Situated just right of the popular Baby Fat route, Jelly Belly's main feature is a finger and hand crack that runs through a roof section, challenging climbers to engage in a dynamic sequence of moves that test technique more than endurance.

The climb opens with an approach along a rugged boulder-strewn path, where the urban backdrop fades into a quieter slice of nature marked by patches of scrub and rocky ledges. As you reach the base at about 37.23188 latitude and -122.09379 longitude, the rock’s texture—a solid, slightly featured sandstone—becomes apparent, inviting careful smearing and precise holds.

The defining move happens within the roof crack, where a powerful pull and a strategic foot jam transition you through the overhang. After this intense crux, the route eases into easier laybacking moves, letting climbers savor the subtle friction of the rock and steady rhythm toward the two-bolt anchor. The bolted protection, consisting of one bolt before the roof and another above, offers reliable security, making this climb an excellent choice for those who want a touch of challenge without a complex gear setup.

Jelly Belly is perfect for climbers who crave technical boulder-style sequences without committing to long pitches. This short route lends itself especially well to top-rope sessions, given the accessible bolted anchors and straightforward rappel or walk-off descent. It suits a wide spectrum of abilities, inviting intermediate climbers to push their limits while providing veterans an opportunity to refine their crux tactics in a contained setting.

Climate around Indian Rock leans toward mild coastal influences, with morning shade on the rock during the spring and fall seasons, marking them as ideal times for climbing. The rock’s orientation gives afternoon sun, warming the holds and the surrounding ledges comfortably but avoiding excessive heat common to inland spots. Plan your visit mid-morning or late afternoon for a balance of sun exposure and cooling breezes.

Practically speaking, bring a moderate rack suitable for sport and top-rope, some sticky climbing shoes for the small crimps and jams, and plenty of water since the climb offers limited shade and no water source nearby. The approach is brief but involves a bit of loose rock underfoot, so wearing sturdy footwear is advised. Traffic at Indian Rock varies; weekends attract crowds, so weekdays or early starts can provide a more tranquil experience.

Jelly Belly's appeal lies in capturing adventure in a concise package—a focused, challenging move within a friendly environment that still inspires a sense of accomplishment. Whether topping out and soaking in the views of the surrounding Bay Area or shaking out at the belay station, this climb leaves a lasting impression that even small routes can pack a big punch.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the approach; loose rocks can shift underfoot. On the climb, the roof move requires commitment—ensure your clipping and body positioning are secure to avoid falls. The area can get slick in damp conditions, so prioritize dry days.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Approach on loose, rocky terrain—wear sturdy shoes.

Morning climbs benefit from cooler shade; afternoons provide sunwarming.

Bring enough water; no sources nearby.

Weekday sessions avoid crowds and offer a quieter experience.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating holds firm mainly due to the singular roof move that demands precise technique and finger strength. The crux is well defined but not sustained, offering a concentrated challenge rather than a continuous effort. Compared to other local climbs, Jelly Belly presents a stiff punch of difficulty in a brief segment, making it feel tougher than its length might suggest.

Gear Requirements

The route is equipped with two bolts: one positioned before the roof crux and a second above it. Climbers can safely set up a bolted anchor at the top, making it well suited for top-rope or sport lead. Minimal rack needed—standard sport climbing gear and sticky shoes recommended.

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Tags

finger crack
roof crux
short route
sport climbing
top-rope friendly