HomeClimbingJekyll & Hyde

Jekyll & Hyde Trad and Aid Climb on Flatrock, Newfoundland

St. John's, Canada
aid climbing
trad gear
two-pitch
technical cracks
coastal climb
mixed climbing
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Jekyll & Hyde
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jekyll & Hyde carves a sharp two-pitch journey on Flatrock’s granite walls, blending aid and free climbing into a compelling challenge. From tight seams to technical free moves, this route offers climbers a confident taste of Newfoundland’s coastal grit."

Jekyll & Hyde Trad and Aid Climb on Flatrock, Newfoundland

Jekyll & Hyde presents a compelling blend of traditional and aid climbing carved into the rugged granite face of Flatrock on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. This two-pitch ascent cuts a sharp line through thin seams and challenging roofs, demanding steady technique and thoughtful gear placements. The first pitch requires aid climbing skills with its subtle, tight cracks that coax progress upward before opening onto a ledge where climbers can secure a solid belay. Despite the modest size of the gear, protection placements here are surprisingly reliable, creating a tense but manageable rhythm for the cautious climber.

The second pitch shifts tone, welcoming climbers into hands-on free climbing. Starting with some technically demanding moves just off the belay stance, the route eases into a blend of scrambling and easier crack work, rewarding climbers with sweeping views of the rugged coastline and dense boreal forest that stretches inland. This pitch tests both balance and judgement, as gear placements become larger but more sporadic. The climb finishes amid clusters of trees at the top, providing natural anchors and a quiet space to pause and absorb the wildness around.

Access to Jekyll & Hyde is straightforward but requires preparedness: the approach traverses coastal terrain that is firm yet uneven, with a short hike from nearby parking areas on Avalon. Its mid-latitude position means weather can shift quickly—anticipate cool, damp conditions in shoulder seasons, making sturdy footwear and layered clothing essentials. With its mix of aid and free, the climb appeals to adventurers seeking a sharp technical challenge without extremes of length or remoteness. The 200-foot route offers an intimate encounter with Newfoundland’s coastal rock, where quiet determination meets natural grit.

Climbers should be equipped with a rack that extends to 3 inches, including micro cams and ballnuts, as the first pitch thrives on well-placed small gear in narrow seams. Larger cams may see use on the second pitch’s freer terrain but expect to rely on your ability to read subtle protection opportunities. The route carries a moderate rating of 5.9 C2, with the aid pitch demanding patience and steady footwork, while the second pitch’s cruxes push strength and technique just enough to keep things engaging.

As a multi-discipline climb, Jekyll & Hyde straddles tradition and aid without resorting to brute force; it moves with the natural line of the rock and requires a balance of tactical gear management and refined climbing movement. This makes it ideal for climbers comfortable with both styles who want to experience a slice of Newfoundland’s coastal climbing scene that is accessible yet challenging, raw but reliable.

Climber Safety

The first pitch requires careful attention to small and sometimes delicate gear placements; ensure all micro cams and ballnuts are expertly secured to avoid slips. The roof section can be particularly exposed—stay deliberate. Weather changes can impact gear security and rock friction, so check conditions before ascending and prepare for cool, damp shifts typical of coastal Newfoundland.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Carry a mixed rack prioritizing small cams and ballnuts for reliable aid placements.

Start early to avoid afternoon dampness that can slick the cracks on the first pitch.

Layer up for variable weather and bring sturdy footwear for the rocky coastal approach.

Use natural gear belays at the ledge between pitches to secure a safe transition.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 C2
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 C2, Jekyll & Hyde balances aid and free climbing seamlessly. The aid pitch’s grade feels true to form with technical placements that require finesse rather than brute strength. The free climbing pitch pushes with some stiff moves early on that smooth out into easier scrambling, making this a well-rounded challenge. Compared to other local climbs, its aid difficulty is approachable, placing it within reach for climbers developing their aid skills.

Gear Requirements

A diverse rack is key: micro cams, nuts, and ballnuts for the aid pitch’s thin seams plus gear up to 3 inches. Larger cams can assist on the freer second pitch but protection remains sparse.

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Tags

aid climbing
trad gear
two-pitch
technical cracks
coastal climb
mixed climbing