Adventure Collective

Jaws: The Detached Pillar Traverse at Burney Limestone

Burney, California United States
detached pillar
traverse
trad anchor
short pitch
moderate exposure
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jaws
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jaws offers a unique trad experience on a detached limestone pillar, combining a short but engaging traverse with manageable protection and a memorable setting at Burney Limestone. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick trad challenge with a bit of exposure."

Jaws: The Detached Pillar Traverse at Burney Limestone

Jaws offers a concise, engaging trad climb that challenges you to move with confidence on a unique detached pillar feature within Burney Limestone’s Outer Wall. This route sits just left of the imposing Cheeky Bastard, requiring a controlled traverse rightward to reach that climb’s summit. The exposed nature of the pillar feels alive beneath your fingertips as the rock’s textured surface demands thoughtful footwork and steady balance. Though the crux is brief and generally approachable, it carries an edge of tension amplified by the route’s unusual structure—being a freestanding fin separated from the main wall. Protection is straightforward but demands a good rack of cams to 4 inches and long slings, as the anchor spots require careful management to ensure safety during the traverse and descent.

The route’s 40-foot length unfolds quickly but offers a satisfying slice of trad climbing, especially for those looking to sample Burney Limestone’s sharp edges and varied angles without committing to longer pitches. The climb’s angle and crack features reward climbers who maintain fluid movement and a calm mindset when managing the pillar’s separation. Experienced trad climbers will appreciate the handful of precise placements needed to secure the traverse, and the subtle exposure adds an invigorating mental element without pushing into extreme difficulty.

Set in Northern California’s rugged Northeast corner, the area is carved by layers of limestone with generally good rock quality and minimal loose debris. The approach to Jaws requires a short hike into the Outer Wall sector, placing you amid the site’s iconic sharp ridges and quiet forest surrounds. While the climb is brief, the proximity to Cheeky Bastard allows for extended days of climbing by linking routes or exploring nearby lines.

For safety, it’s wise to bring long slings or cordelette for building a secure anchor at the top, as the former two-bolt anchor reported by local climber Steve Weyand was removed, making traditional anchor setups mandatory. The descent involves downclimbing or simul-rappelling toward Cheeky Bastard’s established anchors. Given the route’s position and the delicate nature of the detached pillar, a deliberate and cautious approach benefits climbers aiming to enjoy the climb without surprises.

In all, Jaws is a focused trad line that balances approachable movement with a distinctive rock feature. Its short length and moderate rating make it an excellent choice for climbers seeking a quick, rewarding climb paired with the intrigue of a detached structure requiring both technical ability and mental composure.

Climber Safety

The removal of the fixed bolts means the anchor relies entirely on natural gear, so ensure solid placements before committing. The detached pillar can sway subtly; avoid loose rock and take care with the downclimb traverse where footing narrows.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the Outer Wall trailhead; expect a 15-minute hike with moderate terrain.

Long slings help reduce rope drag on the exposed traverse.

Scout the top anchor placement before leading to familiarize yourself with gear options.

Downclimb carefully or simul-rappel to Cheeky Bastard's anchors for a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating reflects a route that feels solid for moderate climbers. The crux is short but moves on exposed, detached rock that demands precision. Unlike many straightforward 5.9 routes, Jaws requires mental focus on placement and balance; the grade feels true with a sharp but manageable crux. Climbers familiar with other Burney Limestone 5.9s will recognize a slightly more adventurous element here due to the pillar’s split nature.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of cams up to 4 inches and plenty of long slings for anchor building and the downclimb traverse to Cheeky Bastard’s anchor. The original two-bolt anchor is no longer present, so be prepared for traditional anchor setup.

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Tags

detached pillar
traverse
trad anchor
short pitch
moderate exposure