"Jaw Bone delivers a focused 50-foot trad climb with solid jams and a crux involving a widening crack in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon. It’s an ideal route for climbers seeking a practical warm-up within one of the world’s premier granite climbing zones."
Jaw Bone offers climbers a focused and rewarding introduction to the trad routes threading through Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon. This single-pitch climb unfolds over 50 feet of granite, inviting you to engage with a series of jams that demand both technique and rhythm. Starting with secure jams accompanied by a stem-out to the left, the climb immediately sets a practical tone, compelling you to find balance and precision before the crack broadens into a zig-zag pattern—the unmistakable crux where body positioning takes on greater nuance and challenge.
The route’s protection setup is straightforward yet demands some thought. A single set of gear covers most placements comfortably, but having extra pieces in hand sizes and a #4 friend expands your safety options, especially as the crack widens. Anchored with a bolted station shared between Jaw Bone and its neighbor Snatch Power, descending is simple and secure, allowing a smooth transition at the top.
The approach is gentle, following the Finger Lickin’ Area trails that wind alongside the Lower Merced River. The setting itself highlights Yosemite’s raw granite character—smooth enough to invite confident footwork, textured enough to reward careful placement. The exposure is moderate, making Jaw Bone well-suited for climbers seeking a reliable warm-up within the heart of the valley’s rock climbing opportunities.
Since this is a single pitch, it’s a perfect option for pairing with other routes nearby or squeezing in a quality climb before venturing elsewhere. Morning light tends to illuminate the walls well, making early starts ideal for cooler temperatures and better grip.
Climbers appreciate Jaw Bone as an accessible challenge that sharpens traditional skills, offering tangible learning moments without overwhelming force. It's a route where solid jam technique pays dividends and where every movement matters. Pack your gear strategically, plan your approach thoughtfully, and be ready to commit to the crux’s wider moves—the payoff is a satisfying taste of Yosemite’s legendary granite climbing culture.
Watch your foot placements carefully as the approach trail can be uneven and slippery near the river. The crux section requires precise gear placement; don’t underestimate the need for extra hand-sized protection. Anchoring at the bolted station is straightforward, but always double-check bolts before rappelling.
Start early for cooler granite and reduced sun exposure on the wall.
Bring hand-sized cams in addition to standard rack to cover wider sections safely.
Use the nearby bolted anchor shared with Snatch Power for a secure rappel.
Plan extra time for approach along uneven river canyon trails with moderate terrain.
A single set of traditional gear covers most placements, but extras in hand sizes and a #4 Camalot enhance protection, especially through the wider crux section where placements become more varied.
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