HomeClimbingJarheads and City Slickers

Jarheads and City Slickers

Twentynine Palms, California United States
loose rock
runout
medium cams
two-bolt anchor
desert heat
single pitch
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jarheads and City Slickers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jarheads and City Slickers is a gritty single-pitch trad climb on Rat Rock’s rugged granite face. Its loose cracks and a committing crux between bolts demand sharp focus and careful gear placements, making it a compelling challenge for those ready to handle a runout 5.10a R in the high desert heat."

Jarheads and City Slickers

Jarheads and City Slickers offers a gritty, direct experience on Rat Rock’s rugged face in Joshua Tree National Park. This short, single-pitch trad climb demands sharp focus amid loose cracks and exposed face moves, challenging climbers who like to push their mental game as much as their technique. The route opens with scrambling over uneven, fractured cracks within a narrow gully before veering left onto a steep face guarded by two bolts. The section between these bolts holds the route’s crux—a brief but decisive sequence that tests balance and commitment. Falling here risks hitting a ledge between the bolts, so protection placement and control are crucial.

Despite the modest length of about 50 feet, Jarheads and City Slickers packs a punch with a sustained 5.10a R rating that warns of limited gear and tricky placements. Medium-sized cams and two quickdraws are essential, while a directional at the top anchor can prevent rope drag and keep the belayer secure. The anchor setup is shared with the nearby routes Graduate and Don't Look Back, offering a reliable finish point.

Approaching Rat Rock requires a straightforward but sometimes rocky hike from Barker Dam, crossing sandy desert terrain punctuated by resilient yucca and spiny cacti. The sun beats down relentlessly most of the day, so timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon helps to avoid overheating. The rock itself is classic Joshua Tree high desert granite—coarse, with sharp edges and enough texture to grip but demanding unyielding footwork and precise hand placements.

This route is best suited for experienced climbers confident in navigating sparse protection and comfortable with a runout crux. The eerie silence of the high desert surrounds you, disrupted only by wind whispering through sparse vegetation and the occasional call of a distant bird. The sense of exposure here is tangible, and the rock’s character feels alive as it challenges every movement.

Fitness, mental steadiness, and careful gear selection are key. Prepare with reliable medium cams and slings, and be prepared to place your gear carefully to manage the risk. Hydrate adequately before setting out, wear sturdy, well-broken-in climbing shoes, and keep a keen eye on the weather forecast—winds can pick up fast and intensify the desert heat.

Ultimately, Jarheads and City Slickers isn’t a casual climb; it’s a test of nerve and skill where the desert’s raw energy meets technical trad climbing. If you seek bold adventure on a short route that demands respect, this Joshua Tree face delivers a memorable yet pragmatic challenge.

Climber Safety

Loose cracks in the gully at the start can unsettle gear placements and holds; assess them carefully to avoid dislodging rock. The ledge between the bolts marks a dangerous fall zone, so avoid pendulums with precise protection. Desert heat also demands careful hydration and timing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid the intense midday sun.

Double-check gear placements between the bolts; a fall there risks hitting a ledge.

Carry plenty of water—desert heat depletes hydration fast.

Use the shared two-bolt anchor atop Graduate and Don’t Look Back for a secure top-rope or rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R rating here hints at the precarious runout crux that separates this climb from more straightforward moderate routes. While the technical moves are manageable for a solid 5.10 climber, the sparse protection and exposure bump up the mental challenge. Compared to other Joshua Tree trad lines of similar grade, the R rating is warranted and demands respect.

Gear Requirements

Bring some medium cams and two quickdraws to manage the limited natural protection. A directional anchor at the top helps protect your partner and reduces rope rub. Gear placements require precision due to loose rock and runout sections.

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Tags

loose rock
runout
medium cams
two-bolt anchor
desert heat
single pitch