"Jane Pauley carves a convincing 30-foot crack climb on the left split of a Y-shaped formation in Joshua Tree’s Left Hand of Darkness. This trad route offers secure gear placements and a solid 5.8 challenge perfect for climbers transitioning into crack climbing."
Jane Pauley offers an inviting yet focused climbing experience tucked into the rugged terrain of Joshua Tree’s Left Hand of Darkness sector. Scaled along a distinct left branch of a "Y" shaped crack, this 30-foot single-pitch route presents a classic trad challenge with reliable placements ranging from small to large gear. The climb demands a precise balance of technique and respect for the rock, as the crack pushes climbers to engage with its varied widths and subtle features. From the first moves, the rock’s warm texture under your fingertips and the natural cracks beckon exploration, a playground for those mastering the fundamentals of gear placement and crack climbing.
The approach to Jane Pauley is straightforward, weaving through the sun-bleached boulders and gravelly paths characteristic of Joshua Tree's high desert landscape. At just under 35 degrees north latitude, the morning sun hits the face perfectly, offering excellent light for early climbs but demanding dawn starts to beat the midday heat during warmer months. As you ascend, the quiet desert air carries a faint melody of wind through sparse junipers, and the scent of creosote brushes with each breath.
Protection is solid but requires a well-rounded rack: small to large cams and nuts fit naturally within the crack’s sections, making it a smart choice for climbers sizing up their trad gear confidence. The anchor at the top is straightforward to build, allowing for a secure descent by downclimbing or rap off the left, where the rock remains sound. The route’s moderate 5.8 difficulty rating appeals to climbers who appreciate movement within moderate commitment, bridging the gap between beginner and intermediate trad skills without sacrificing the thrill.
Surrounding routes like Uncle Fester provide a clear landmark, making navigation intuitive for visitors. After topping out, climbers often pause to take in sweeping views of the desert floor and nearby granite monoliths, grounding them in an environment that is both rugged and deeply rewarding. Jane Pauley is framed by the broader Lost Horse Area, a favored slice of Joshua Tree known for its balance of challenge and accessibility.
Planning your trip here means factoring in the high desert’s variable conditions — hydration is key, as is sun protection during peak hours. Footwear with sticky rubber helps grip not only the crack edges but the rough face surrounding it, and layering for chilly mornings will keep you comfortable. With steady hands, a clear plan, and respect for the rock’s personality, Jane Pauley delivers a crisp taste of Joshua Tree’s granite heart, a route that tests skill and rewards focus with every move.
Rock quality is generally solid, but caution is advised when building anchors and downclimbing, especially when descending left. Watch for loose rock near the top and secure all gear scrupulously to minimize risk. Avoid mid-to-late afternoon climbs during summer due to heat and sun exposure.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the east face.
Approach via the Lost Horse picnic area parking for easiest access.
Pack at least 2 liters of water — the desert air is dry and thirsty.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize friction on rock and crack edges.
Bring a full rack with a wide size range of cams, from small to large, to protect varied crack widths. Standard nuts and slings will also help anchor your lead and build a secure top anchor.
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