Jammies: A Classic Trad and Aid Route in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Three Rivers, California United States
jamming
aid climbing
flake climbing
multi-pitch
trad
5.9
granite
sequoia
Length: 280 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Jammies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jammies invites climbers into a spirited blend of trad and aid climbing over three engaging pitches. From jams and liebacks to technical aid sections and a dynamic final pitch, this route rewards perseverance and offers a distinct taste of Sequoia's granite character."

Jammies: A Classic Trad and Aid Route in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Jammies stands out in the Race Crack Area as a compelling blend of traditional and aid climbing that challenges both technique and resolve over three pitches and nearly 300 feet of rock. This route begins with a highly trafficked first pitch that draws climbers in with its accessible jams and liebacks, set on textured flakes that demand precise hand and footwork. Climbers often linger here, savoring the hustle and flow of jammed fingers while the rock whispers tales of past efforts.

The approach is practical, yet immersive: a short hike from the trailhead leads you into the cool shade of sequoia groves, where the crunch of pine needles underfoot mingles with the crisp mountain air. The granite face catches the morning light softly before sharpening into full sun by midday, giving climbers clear visibility and warmth.

Pitch one is inviting, rated 5.8+, and blends jamming with a technical reaching move protected by a bolt, rewarding the thoughtful climber with a traverse to a sport anchor perched neatly left on the face. From here, the route shifts into aid climbing for pitch two, where the terrain steepens and gear placements become more demanding. Tension traverses and careful back-cleaning keep you connected as you ascend a narrow crack peppered with bolts and pins—several areas requiring steady feet and a calm head. The last ascent saw loose sections improving steadily as climbers clean up the line, revealing solid seams to engage aid climbing skills.

The final pitch is a gem and often overlooked due to the aid pitch required to reach it. This 5.9 pitch delivers slick lie-backing and dynamic jams, finishing with a challenging mantel over an overhang that leaves a lasting impression. The variety here makes pushing past the aid section worthwhile, offering a satisfying payoff of movement and exposure.

Protection calls for a well-rounded rack: singles from nuts to fists for the first pitch, doubled nuts to 1 inch cams for pitch two, and a finer selection including fingers up to 3-inch cams to tackle the final pitch’s crack system. Pins provide critical backup in several spots, with angles, baby angles, and lost arrows also recommended. Two 60-meter ropes are essential for the descent, which involves a single rope rappel from the top of pitch three down to the second anchor, followed by a double rope rappel to the ground.

Seasonally, early fall and late spring are prime windows for climbing here, when daytime temperatures are moderate and the rock remains dry and welcoming. Footwear with sticky rubber and good edging ability will make the technical moves more confident, while a hydration strategy is wise given the sun exposure on upper pitches.

Locally, the Jammies route inhabits Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, an area prized for its granite walls, quiet beauty, and well-established climbing lines. Although approachable, the route demands respect for aid climbing techniques and caution during loose or newly cleaned sections. With thoughtful preparation and steady effort, climbers will find Jammies to be a route that balances challenge with fun, carving an unforgettable experience in one of California’s iconic climbing areas.

Climber Safety

The aid pitch contains some loose rock and thin protection placements, so move deliberately and always test gear before weighting. The double rope rappel descent demands careful rope management to avoid snagging on uneven terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches3
Length280 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed upper pitches.

Double-check pin placements on the aid pitch; loose rock is steadily clearing but caution is required.

Hydrate well before the climb; sun exposure increases above the tree line.

Use sticky-soled shoes with precise edging for technical jams and liebacks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 A2
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 A2, Jammies offers a moderately stiff crux on the final pitch where technique and strength converge on dynamic jams and a mantel move. The aid section at pitch two adds complexity, requiring solid skills and calm pacing to negotiate tricky placements. Compared to other local routes, the two styles combined make this climb stand out for differing challenges across pitches.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of singles from nuts to fists for the first pitch and doubles from nuts up to 1-inch cams for the aid pitch. Carry pins along with angles, baby angles, and lost arrows to cover tricky placements. Fingers to 3-inch cams are essential for the final pitch. Two 60-meter ropes will facilitate the descent.

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Tags

jamming
aid climbing
flake climbing
multi-pitch
trad
5.9
granite
sequoia