HomeClimbingJam Crack Route

Jam Crack Route at Sunshine Buttress

Frisco, Colorado United States
crack climbing
roof crux
trad gear
short pitch
10 Mile Canyon
Colorado
sunny exposure
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jam Crack Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jam Crack Route on Sunshine Buttress combines straightforward slab approaches with a hands-on crack section that culminates in a compelling roof crux. This accessible 5.8 trad climb offers clear protection opportunities set in the striking Colorado 10 Mile Canyon, ideal for climbers eager to refine crack techniques in a scenic and practical setting."

Jam Crack Route at Sunshine Buttress

On the rugged face of Sunshine Buttress’s Wichita Wall, Jam Crack Route stands as a straightforward yet spirited encounter for trad climbers seeking a quick punch of classic crack climbing. Located within the broad expanse of 10 Mile Canyon, Colorado, this single-pitch line offers an engaging mix of slab scrambling and hand-to-finger jam sequences that test your technique and will without demanding complex gear setups. From the start, you trace the familiar approach of Jack Straw but veer onto an uncomplicated slab that leads you to a prominent right-facing corner. This corner invites confident stemming and jamming, guiding you toward a roof that commands respect with its seemingly bold 5.8 rating. Pushing past the roof requires solid commitment, where well-placed cams provide security and confidence to overcome this crux.

The rock’s texture here is firm and gritty, giving reliable friction underfoot and in hand, essential when maneuvering over the roof’s overhang. Above this obstacle, a horizontal crack stretches just beyond a sizable dead tree, offering an ideal spot for a directional piece—critical for keeping your line safe and controlled. The final traverse, 15 feet rightward, leads you to the anchors of Jack Straw, a reminder of the interconnectedness of routes on this face and the vibrant climbing history etched in this canyon. While the climb is relatively short at 100 feet, it is compact with memorable moments: jammed cracks that feel alive beneath your fingers, the cool Colorado air brushing across your skin, and the expansive canyon views framing your ascent.

Preparation here is straightforward but can make or break your day. Lightweight cams focusing on smaller sizes—from micro pieces to about three inches—cover the protection needs efficiently. As the highest difficulty revolves around the roof, ensure you have adequate gear to confidently safeguard this section. The approach, found easily from the main trail of 10 Mile Canyon, involves a moderate hike over rocky terrain that opens into Boulder fields and scattered pines. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon hours avoids the intense midday sun, as the wall receives direct sunlight in the afternoon, which can bring warmth but at the cost of slicker hands from sweat. Hydration is key, as the dry mountain air can catch even seasoned climbers off guard.

While the Jam Crack Route is approachable for a 5.8 leader, it offers a satisfying challenge that blends the elemental pleasures of crack climbing with a hint of exposure. This line is perfectly suited for climbers looking to sharpen crack technique in a high-desert landscape setting without committing to long, drawn-out multi-pitch endeavors. After topping out, the descent is simple: a short rappel to the base of the wall returns you smoothly to the trailhead, allowing time to savor the canyon’s wide-open vistas and wind down your climbing session.

Explore Jam Crack for a no-frills, honest trad climb that rewards careful gear choices and a bold step over the roof. Its accessible length and classic moves extend an inviting challenge that feels both playful and resolute amid the scenic Colorado cliffs.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for placement quality on protection above the roof, especially in the horizontal crack near the dead tree. The rock is solid but the roof requires confident moves; slipping here can lead to longer falls if gear isn’t placed securely.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Begin the approach early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the wall.

Bring a rack focused on smaller cams, especially micro sizes for protection beyond the roof.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for optimal friction on slab sections.

Hydrate well and prepare for dry air typical of 10 Mile Canyon elevations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating for Jam Crack is consistent but leans toward the stiffer side around the roof section—expect a crux move that bumps the difficulty from what feels like an otherwise straightforward climb. Compared to nearby moderate routes, Jam Crack integrates simple slab climbing with a committed crack sequence that demands solid technique more than pure power.

Gear Requirements

Climb effectively using a small rack: two one-inch cams, one 0.75-inch cam, a 3-inch cam placed high in the roof, and several micro cams for directional protection just above the roof crack.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Jam Crack Route and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
roof crux
trad gear
short pitch
10 Mile Canyon
Colorado
sunny exposure