HomeClimbingJAKS Crack

JAKS Crack at Red Rocks: A Hidden Traditional Challenge with Desert Vibes

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
chimney
desert rock
traditional
single pitch
winter sun
unbolted
red rocks
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
JAKS Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"JAKS Crack offers a quiet, single-pitch hand crack and chimney route on the West Face of the Second Fin at Red Rocks. Known for its solid protection and winter sun exposure, this trad climb invites those seeking solitude and a genuine crack climbing challenge near Boulder."

JAKS Crack at Red Rocks: A Hidden Traditional Challenge with Desert Vibes

JAKS Crack offers a distinctive experience carved into the rugged West Face of the Second Fin at Red Rocks Park, just outside Boulder, Colorado. This single-pitch, 40-foot trad line climbs a striking hand crack that shifts gradually into a chimney, inviting climbers into an intimate encounter with raw desert stone. Though tucked away from the usual trail-packed loop, JAKS reveals itself as a quiet challenge for the climber who seeks solitude and a pure connection with vertical terrain. Its position on the west side ensures the rock bathes in warm winter sunlight, providing an inviting climb when the chill sets into the valley below.

Approaching JAKS Crack means leaving the well-worn paths behind and stepping onto less-traveled rock. The crack itself is a direct feature—a clean, straightforward hand crack that demands steady jamming and precise footwork, leading to a chimney section where skillful body positioning becomes the key. The rock quality surprises most who scale this route; it’s unusually solid for Red Rocks, offering reliable protection points for those comfortable with gear up to 4 inches. Unlike many heavily trafficked routes here, the absence of fixed anchors means climbers must be prepared to invest in thoughtful placements throughout, adding to the traditional feel of the climb.

Set against the backdrop of Boulder’s rolling foothills, JAKS lives in a desert-like pocket where the rock’s texture and the sparse vegetation around create an environment that seems to dare you upward. The climb’s isolation brings a peaceful rhythm—only the whisper of wind and the distant call of birds accompany each move. As you ascend, you can feel the sun shifting, warming the stone and your fingers, a welcome contrast to the cool mountain shadows nearby.

For those planning a trip to JAKS Crack, timing is straightforward. Afternoon sun softens the chill, making winter climbs especially pleasant. The route’s exposure on the west face means avoiding the harsh midday sun of summer, when temperatures can spike unexpectedly. Gear-wise, a standard rack including cams up to 4" is essential; runners and precise placements will protect you well in the surprisingly solid rock. Approach trails are faint, requiring navigation skills and a prepared mindset. Although it’s close to Boulder, the climb demands respect for its wild feel and readiness for self-sufficiency.

In all, JAKS Crack is a compact, rewarding test of traditional climbing skills. It’s well-suited for adventurous climbers in search of a quiet challenge away from crowded faces. The blend of sturdy rock, clear crack climbing, and the desert ambiance framed by scenic Boulder landscapes makes it a distinctive entry in the Red Rocks climbing scene. Whether you’re dialing in your crack technique or hunting a reflective moment high on the stone, JAKS holds promise for those who venture there.

Climber Safety

Without any fixed gear or anchors, climbers must rely entirely on personal gear placements. Ensure all protection is solid before committing, and be mindful that approach paths can be confusing—carry navigation tools and avoid loose rock near the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb in the afternoon during winter months for ideal sunlight and warmth.

Bring a full traditional rack with plenty of cams in the 3" to 4" range for secure placements.

Approach trails are unmarked and faint; carry a map or GPS to avoid unnecessary detours.

Be prepared for an unbolted ascent—no fixed anchors or bolts on this route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade on JAKS Crack feels honest with a moderate crux transitioning from the hand crack to chimney. The rating is straightforward for climbers comfortable with crack techniques, with no surprise difficulties but a need for solid gear placements keeping the challenge authentic. Compared to other Red Rocks trad routes, it ranks as approachable but demands attention to protection and route-finding.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack with cams up to 4" is necessary to protect the entire line. The rock accepts protection reliably, so placing gear consistently is the best path to safety.

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Tags

hand crack
chimney
desert rock
traditional
single pitch
winter sun
unbolted
red rocks