Jade at The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
thin finger crack
small gear
single pitch
west-facing
technical
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jade
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jade slices a narrow finger crack just left of Check Mark at The Smoke Bluffs, demanding precise small gear placements and focused technique. This single-pitch trad climb is a perfect challenge for climbers seeking a sharp test of crack skills amid Squamish's rugged granite."

Jade at The Smoke Bluffs

Jade cuts a slender line through the granite face just west of the popular Check Mark route, offering climbers a pure test of finger strength and precise gear placements on a thin crack. This single-pitch trad climb demands focus and skill, with no shortcuts around the narrow crack—every move commits you to a delicate rhythm that keeps you locked in tight against the rock. The granite here is firm and textured, giving just enough bite for clean hand jams and smears, but protection is sparse and relies on small gear placements, so a well-balanced rack of micro cams and nuts is essential. The surrounding forest hums with life, the rustle of pine needles and the distant flow of the Squamish River framing your ascent, creating a dynamic interplay between quiet wilderness and the pulse of challenge.

Accessing Jade means stepping into The Smoke Bluffs, a climbing mecca with dozens of routes spread across solid granite walls. The approach involves an easy 10-minute walk on well-marked trails through open forest and granite boulders, with GPS coordinates helping secure the trailhead. Climbing here, you face a west-facing wall that holds afternoon sun, warming the rock in the cooler months and making it a prime afternoon spot in spring and fall. Expect the route to take about 20 to 30 minutes depending on your pace and proficiency, with a descent that’s straightforward but demands care, using a quick rappel or careful downclimbing around ledges.

Protection on Jade is all about finesse. Small cams fit into the delicate crack, some placements requiring patience to feel confident, and the absence of fixed gear means you’ll trust your own judgment fully. The climb’s 5.10d rating places it at the upper intermediate level, with a crux near the midway point demanding precise footwork and controlled body position. Compared to nearby lines, Jade feels a little stiffer, with tighter holds and less room for error.

Safety is paramount given the thin crack and limited pro opportunities. Watch for loose rock near the base and always double-check placements before committing to each move. The approach trail is rocky but stable, yet slippery moss patches from frequent rain can easily catch climbers off guard. A helmet, solid climbing shoes, and layered clothing for fluctuating temperatures complete the recommended kit. Carry enough water, as the area offers limited sources, and start early to avoid crowds.

For those eager to sharpen finger cracks and improve trad precision, Jade offers a succinct but memorable challenge within one of British Columbia’s most celebrated climbing hubs. Whether you’re honing your trad game or ticking off strong lines in Squamish, this route quietly tests skill, gear confidence, and focus against the timeless, rugged granite of The Smoke Bluffs.

Climber Safety

Protection relies exclusively on small gear placements, which can be tricky to place securely in the narrow crack—take your time to find the best gear and always wear a helmet due to occasional loose rock near the base. The approach trails can be slippery in wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Begin early in the day to nab cooler temperatures and less crowded conditions.

Double-check all small gear placements for security before trusting them fully.

Wear grippy climbing shoes suited for thin cracks to maintain precision.

Approach trails can be slick after rain—watch your footing on mossy rocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Jade feels more demanding than similarly rated climbs nearby due to its thin, sustained finger crack and sparse protection. The crux centers around delicate body positioning and micro placements, making it a concentrated test of technical trad skill rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Small gear is essential for protecting the thin finger crack. Bring a selection of micro cams and nuts for secure placements; fixed gear is absent, so solid anchor-building skills are needed.

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Tags

thin finger crack
small gear
single pitch
west-facing
technical