"Jaclonor offers a tightly packed trad climb threading horizontal cracks and a challenging roof on Mont-King’s granite walls. This 70-foot pitch blends solid gear opportunities with technical moves, making it a must for trad climbers exploring the Laurentians."
Jaclonor presents a focused trad climbing experience carved into the rugged face of Mont-King, just outside the charming town of Val-David in Quebec’s Laurentians. This single-pitch, 70-foot route winds through a series of spaced horizontal cracks, inviting climbers to engage a variety of techniques—from delicate face holds to sustained crack jamming. Early sections offer comfortable gear placements, making for a confident start as you maneuver toward a roof formed by a jumble of boulders that feels like nature's own obstacle crafted just for the climb. Passing this overhang requires some commitment and attention, rewarding those who navigate this feature with a small ledge that serves as a brief refuge before the final push.
From this ledge, the challenge increases. The upper stretch is blanker, demanding solid movement and precise footwork while placing smaller protection pieces in subtle horizontals. The protection here is good but small, urging an attentive approach to gear selection. The route’s 5.9 R rating reflects this exposure: a fall near the top risks contact with the ledge below, underscoring the need for respect and focus. Despite this, most climbers will appreciate the directness and technical variety packed into this concise climb.
Located within the expansive staircase of Mont-King’s granite formations, Jaclonor embodies the practical spirit of Laurentian trad climbing — a blend of accessible approaches and sobering moves that keep adrenaline in check. The granite's texture is firm, with ample friction to support smearing and edging, complemented by cracks that accommodate micro cams and a range of smaller sizes.
Gear-wise, plan to bring a full rack from micros through Camalot #2 along with nuts. Despite guidebook notes about a bolt anchor at the top, none is currently installed, so your anchor setup needs to be self-reliant, anchored strictly on trad placements and natural features. This lends an added layer of responsibility and reinforces the route’s adventurous nature.
Approaching Jaclonor is straightforward, with access through the Mont-King area’s well-trodden trails in the Laurentians. The region’s forested paths lead you steadily upward, the sound of wind through pines and the occasional birdcall accompanying your steps, creating an immersive outdoor experience that complements the climb. The moderate elevation makes this climb approachable through much of the climbing season, though spring runoff and late fall chills remind you to check conditions ahead.
Whether you’re honing trad skills or seeking a short but serious route with a dose of exposure, Jaclonor captures the essence of Laurentian granite — gritty, direct, and thoughtfully demanding. The route’s compact nature fits neatly into a day’s outing, combining technical climbing variety with practical essentials, perfect for those who value both challenge and efficiency in their alpine adventures.
Falling near the top carries a significant hazard from the small ledge; maintain focus on protection placements and be deliberate with moves especially above the roof. Absence of a bolted anchor means anchoring requires care and experience.
Carefully size and place small cams in the horizontal cracks for secure protection throughout.
Stay focused on footwork especially on the blank upper section; precise edging is key.
The roof section demands attention but rewards with a rest on the ledge beyond.
Check weather forecasts to avoid wet or icy conditions, as slippery granite can increase the R rating’s risk.
Bring a rack ranging from micros to Camalot #2 plus nuts. Note that the guidebook mentions a bolt at the top, but none is present, so plan to build a traditional anchor at the fixed two-bolt stations.
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