"Jack in a Box offers a compelling trad climbing experience along Cochrane Lane Cliffs, featuring an overhanging triangular dihedral that tests subtle footwork and steady protection skills. It’s a 45-foot single-pitch route perfect for climbers stepping into trad with confidence."
Jack in a Box is a single-pitch trad route that challenges climbers with a striking triangular dihedral hanging over the face at Cochrane Lane Cliffs. The climb demands a steady hand and sharp focus as you navigate the right side of the overhanging corner, where the rock eagerly tests your technique. Once you reach the top of the dihedral, the route calls for a deft left step over the feature before continuing upward through a series of cracks leading to a sturdy tree anchor. This climb’s 45-foot length makes it a compact yet rewarding experience, giving climbers a direct connection with the natural rock formations of Welsford’s rugged cliffs. The climb’s 5.6 rating offers approachable exposure for those easing into traditional climbing, with enough challenge to require solid footwork and confident gear placement.
Joe’s Garage, where this route resides, is a quieter spot in the Welsford area—its cliffs bearing the marks of New Brunswick’s enduring natural character. The surrounding forest breathes around the base, and the rock’s texture provides tactile feedback that intensifies as you ascend. Protection consists of a standard rack, making it essential to bring a well-rounded selection of cams and nuts, especially to cover the slightly awkward placements within the dihedral.
Accessing the climb involves a straightforward approach with a short hike over well-trodden trails. The terrain is typical of the region’s mixed forest floor, with sections of rocky outcrops that hint at the challenge ahead. Once on the cliff, the route stands out as a perfect introduction to trad climbing on the east coast, offering climbers a focused, direct line with minimal exposure but enough commitment to build confidence.
For those planning their trip, timing your climb during spring or early fall provides a balance of cooler temperatures and steady weather—ideal for tackling the slightly overhanging crack system without overheating. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must to stay steady on the smaller edges and smears. Bring plenty of water, as the trail offers little in the way of natural water sources, and consider starting early in the day to avoid the mid-afternoon sun that hits the lower parts of the cliff.
Experienced climbers will appreciate how Jack in a Box rewards careful gear choices and precise movement, while newcomers will find it a solid step into the world of traditional climbing—one that tests composure without overwhelming on length or difficulty. The route's location, combined with its unassuming but quality rock, creates a climbing experience that is both practical and rich with subtle thrills. This climb stands ready to welcome those eager to move beyond sport routes and cultivate their traditional skills within a classic Canadian climbing environment.
Protection placements within the overhanging dihedral can be a bit tricky to find and require attention to placement security. The tree anchor at the top is solid but verify its condition before trusting it fully. Watch for loose rock around the step-over section and plan for a cautious descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the lower cliff.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for precision on edges and smears.
Pack plenty of water; the approach trail has no reliable water sources.
Spring and fall offer the best weather for comfortable climbing conditions.
A standard trad rack covers the protection needs here, with cams sized to fit the dihedral's crack and nuts for secure placements. The protection spots require careful selection to ensure confidence above the overhang.
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