"This trad route challenges climbers with a dynamic corner crack, a powerful roof pull, and a bolt-protected headwall finish. It’s a standout climb in Ontario’s Devil’s Glen, blending physical moves with a unique history marked by the presence of massive blocks above the climb."
Once you arrive at the Looney Tunes Area of Devil's Glen, the route known as It's Raining Volkswagens offers a striking blend of physicality and mental focus for trad climbers ready to test their skills on a sharp 5.10c. The climb begins with a clean, corner crack that invites you to find secure holds and lock in your feet before moving upward toward a narrow ledge. From here, the challenge intensifies as you tackle a roof section demanding a powerful, well-timed pull to overcome the overhang. This move requires attention to body positioning and precise hand placement—no wasted effort here. Beyond the roof, the climb transitions onto a headwall equipped with bolts, providing a controlled but still engaging finish. Be advised, the route carries a distinctive character thanks to the unique history of several large blocks—roughly the size of Volkswagens—that were dropped during its development. Some still remain perched above, adding a raw feeling of unpredictability to the ascent.
Protection mainly consists of anchors at the top, so climbers must be comfortable placing their own gear along the corner before reaching the bolted section. The wall itself sits within a forested environment that filters sunlight, cooling the rock and offering respite on warmer days. The approach to the area is straightforward, allowing for quick access without losing time to navigate complex terrain, so you can focus your energy where it counts.
Climbers should come prepared with a range of cams suitable for finger to hand sizes, plus a shoulder-strengthening mindset to power through the roof move. Steady footwork and smooth transitions are key. This is a route that rewards climbers who stay calm under pressure and remain mindful of balance and sequence.
Overall, It’s Raining Volkswagens blends technical trad climbing with a memorable roof battle and a bolt-protected finale, making it a compelling objective for those aiming to push a moderate 5.10c in a scenic and accessible setting. The combination of solid rock, interesting features, and local character ensures this climb remains a memorable outing for all who try it.
Loose blocks remain overhead in places, so always wear a helmet and avoid lingering beneath the roof or ledge while others climb. The roof move can become slippery when wet; avoid climbing here in damp or rainy conditions.
Approach from the Devil's Glen parking area—it’s an easy 10-minute hike to the base.
Wear sticky rubber shoes for the roof section to maintain grip on the steep overhang.
Check weather forecasts; wet rock can make the roof dangerously slick.
Bring a helmet due to loose blocks that occasionally shift near the route.
Bring a full trad rack focusing on cams for finger to hand cracks, plus draws for the bolt-protected headwall. Anchors are fixed at the top. Expect to place gear carefully on the corner before clipping bolts.
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