HomeClimbingIt's Not Trad Bad

It's Not Trad Bad

St. Andrews, Canada
highball
crack climb
limited protection
limestone
bold
short pitch
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
It's Not Trad Bad
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A brief but bold limestone climb at Green Head Cove delivering a highball trad challenge. Perfect for climbers ready to test their crack skills on solid rock with minimal protection."

It's Not Trad Bad

It's Not Trad Bad offers an intense introduction to trad climbing on a short but demanding limestone face at Green Head Cove in New Brunswick. The route, actually more of a highball boulder problem with serious consequences, begins with a six-foot scramble up to a narrow ledge that sets the stage. From here, the climb threads between a sharp crack on the left and a corner feature on the right, inviting you to test your balance and technique on solid limestone that grips with confidence. The rock's texture offers reliable holds, but the landing below leaves little room for error, reminding climbers to approach with respect and caution.

Though brief at just 20 feet, the climb presents a concentrated burst of challenge—your gear placements need to be carefully considered since protection is limited and placements small. A small cam or nut tucked mid-face can provide a little peace of mind as you navigate the tricky moves between the crack and corner. The route’s rating of 5.9 R reflects the risk inherent to this climb: the moves themselves aren’t extraordinarily hard, but the sparse, unforgiving protection demands solid confidence and clean execution.

Green Head Cove’s limestone offers a texture and character distinct from other regional rock, its compact surface allowing you to focus on footwork and hand jams. The wall faces a direction that catches light during much of the day but can cool down quickly as clouds roll in or as evening approaches. Its location, carved by coastal weather, feels raw and elemental—waves nearby push rhythmically against the shore, almost daring climbers to keep their concentration while nature’s soundtrack plays on.

Access is straightforward, with a short approach from the bouldering area’s main trail. The path winds through patches of scrub and rock gardens, requiring careful footing with gear in tow. Plan for a brief but careful ascent up to the initial ledge where the climb begins. While the climb is short, wear sturdy shoes with a firm edge to benefit from subtle limestone features and avoid slipping. A helmet and attentive spotting are essential given the hazardous landing zone.

This route suits climbers comfortable with trad gear and mental challenges, particularly those who appreciate a bold move or two without committing to a long pitch. It's an excellent way to sharpen your crack climbing skills on rock both reliable and demanding. Time your climb for dry days, avoid any moisture that could soften the limestone grip, and bring a compact rack focused on small cams and nuts. Though brief, It's Not Trad Bad leaves an impression—its raw, direct style demanding focus and respect from anyone willing to step up.

Whether you're scouting for a quick yet meaningful test piece or seeking a technical boulder problem with unusual trad flavor, this route delivers a memorable taste of the rugged New Brunswick coastline’s climbing possibilities.

Climber Safety

The landing below the climb offers minimal cushioning and uneven terrain, increasing risk during falls. Use proper spotting protocols and consider padding if available. Avoid climbing when wet to reduce slipping on the limestone surface.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet and have a spotter due to the hazardous landing.

Bring a rack focused on small cams and nuts for optimal protection.

Time your session for dry weather to ensure solid holds on limestone.

Use sturdy shoes with good edging to maximize grip on subtle features.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 R, the climbing moves themselves are moderate but the route’s sparse protection amplifies the seriousness. The rating warns of a few risky spots with limited gear, demanding clean climbing and mental steadiness. Compared to other 5.9s in the region, this feels stiffer due to the runouts and landing concerns.

Gear Requirements

Small cams around waist level are essential, supplemented by careful nut placements on mid-face sections. Protection is sparse and requires mindfulness with gear selection and placement.

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Tags

highball
crack climb
limited protection
limestone
bold
short pitch