"A textbook Boulder trad climb where reach alters the experience and subtle crack work tests technique. Perfect for climbers seeking a solid single-pitch with disciplined protection and easy canyon access."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Short Cliff in Boulder Canyon, "It's Just Rock Climbing" invites adventurers to test their skills on a striking 90-foot traditional route where body size truly influences the challenge. Positioned at the far right end of the cliff, this single-pitch climb traces a bold right-leaning crack system that demands steady hands and thoughtful gear placement. The approach pulls you into a conversation with the rock as the crack twists upward and right, leading to a comfortable ledge. From there, a subtle traverse left ties you seamlessly into neighboring classics like “Get Over Yourself” or “B-Line For The Tree Line,” creating a satisfying link-up that encourages exploring beyond the single route.
This climb’s personality is shaped by its physical nuances: taller climbers often find the moves easier, capitalizing on reach and stance, whereas those with a shorter wingspan will discover the sequence more demanding, requiring precise footwork and creative body positioning. The rock’s texture offers a tactile grip—abrasive but forgiving—perfect for placing protection with confidence. Speaking of gear, a well-rounded rack featuring cams from tiny sizes up to 2.5 inches, along with stoppers, is essential. For those aiming to lead clean, doubling up on the smallest cams or adding ballnuts is a smart move; these extras ensure your placements hold firm, protecting the flow of the climb.
The route shines in Boulder’s temperate seasons, when clear skies and moderate temperatures allow for steady friction and less sweat on the hands. Early morning or late afternoon ascents provide the best light and shade balance on the face, keeping the rock cool enough to hold on to during key moves. Its location in Boulder Canyon means easy access from the city below, but with enough wilderness feel to double the adventure factor. Park at the canyon’s trailhead and expect a short trek over solid but sometimes rocky terrain, winding through open forest patches over a 15-20 minute walk.
Despite its approachable rating of 5.8 PG13, climbers should remain mindful of the implied challenges—particularly the crux moves where protection can be tricky and the need for sharp route-finding skills is paramount. The exposure near the ledge demands focus, and wind can make the upper sections feel cooler and more precarious than anticipated. After a successful ascent, the descent involves a straightforward downclimb or a possible rappel from fixed anchors—either method calls for attention to safety, especially when rocks are wet from occasional mountain showers.
It’s Just Rock Climbing stands as a compelling option for those craving the simplicity and raw engagement of hand jams and crack climbing with a Boulder twist. Its blend of accessible terrain, thoughtful protection requirements, and closeness to city amenities positions it as a smart choice for trad climbers eager to sharpen their technique or ease into longer multi-route sessions. Whether you're dialing in foot placements or simply savoring the sounds of wind weaving through canyon walls, this climb puts you face to face with the elements while offering room to grow.
Be vigilant managing runouts in the mid-section where protection can be less intuitive. The ledge near the top requires careful navigation, especially when wet or windy, and fixed anchors should be inspected before committing to a rappel. Approach terrain has loose rocks—watch your footing.
Start early or late in the day to avoid sun exposure on the climb’s right-facing crack.
Double-check anchor placements on the ledge before beginning the left traverse to neighboring routes.
Wear shoes with solid edging ability to manage the varied crack widths and foot jams.
Carry extra small cams or ballnuts to back up thin gear placements on the trickier sections.
Prepare a rack with cams ranging from very small to 2.5 inches and a set of stoppers. To secure protection on trickier placements, consider doubling your smallest cams or bringing ballnuts. This strategy will help keep your lead clean and your gear reliable throughout the climb.
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