"A focused finger and thin hand crack climb offering solid protection and straightforward logistics in the Valley of Kings. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a pure crack experience on Joshua Tree’s clean granite."
In the heart of Joshua Tree National Park, tucked within the rugged contours of Rattlesnake Canyon, lies a climb that commands attention without need for grand fanfare. It's Good To Be King is a straightforward trad route, ideal for climbers searching for focused technique on a classic finger and thin hand crack. Located 20 yards right and down from "The Balloon That Wouldn't Die," this climb stands perpendicular to the main wall, offering a vertical rhythm where every hold invites concentration and quiet determination.
The rock here is dry and solid, typical of Joshua Tree’s iconic granite that sharpens your senses. The crack itself provides a near-perfect line for gear placements, accepting protection up to 2 inches. The single pitch, extending roughly 70 feet, feels just long enough to engage without overwhelming—perfect for those who want a pure escape into technical crack climbing without the complications of multi-pitch logistics.
Accessing the climb is straightforward. From the parking area within the Valley of Kings, a short scramble leads you to The Trad Crag, where the wall rises stark and sunlit. Early morning is the best time to begin, as the eastern exposure catches golden light and cooler temperatures before the desert heat settles in.
While the grade reads 5.8, the climb's true challenge comes in negotiating the thin crack with solid foot jams and precise handwork. The placements encourage careful technique and the protection opportunities are generous enough to instill confidence without dulling the need for thoughtful gear placement. Compared with other climbs in Joshua Tree’s moderate range, this route feels well-protected yet demands respect, a balance that makes it an excellent choice for climbers ready to sharpen their crack skills while soaking up the stark beauty of the high desert.
The landscape around you hums with the subtle motions of desert life—sturdy yuccas sway gently, and small lizards dart among sun-baked rocks, reminding you that the environment pushes back as much as it invites. Bring sturdy shoes that grip granite smoothly, and carry enough water as the air can dry fast here. A light wind often dances through the canyon, carrying the scent of creosote and cactus.
Descending is simple: a walk off around the right side of the crag leads back to the trailhead, avoiding any need for rappels and allowing you to wind down in the open desert light. This route is a perfect blend of approachability and technical engagement—friendly to intermediate trad climbers seeking a classic Joshua Tree experience with solid protection and straightforward logistics. Whether you’re setting out on your first crack climbing adventures or looking for a reliable, enjoyable warm-up in the Valley of Kings, It’s Good To Be King rewards steady focus with a smooth, confident ascent under the generous southern California sun.
Rock quality is solid but expect the usual desert grit; watch for awkward landings on exits. The single pitch is well anchored, but double-check placements and be mindful of sun exposure, which can quickly lead to dehydration.
Start early to avoid the rising desert heat and catch the wall when it’s cool and shaded.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for secure edging on the smooth granite slabs.
Bring at least one liter of water—hydration is key despite the short approach and pitch.
Plan your descent via the walk-off path east of the climb to avoid unnecessary rappelling.
Pro placements up to 2 inches are ideal for protecting this clean, finger-width crack. Cam sizes in the small to medium range offer secure holds without crowding the natural line.
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