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It's a Way of Life

Welsford, Canada
trad
crack
single pitch
beginner friendly
bolted anchor
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
It's a Way of Life
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This approachable 70-foot trad route in Cochrane Lane offers a smooth, left-leaning crack climb ideal for beginners seeking to build foundational skills. Its steady angle and reliable protection make it a favored spot for a confident, solo pitch experience amid New Brunswick’s quiet wilderness."

It's a Way of Life

Set against the rugged limestone cliffs of Cochrane Lane, "It's a Way of Life" offers an inviting initiation into trad climbing on the outskirts of Welsford, New Brunswick. This straightforward 70-foot route tracks a gradual, left-leaning crack system that winds weathered flakes and edges, delivering climbers an accessible taste of classic crack climbing without excess strain. The rock, cool and textured under the fingers, offers a reliable purchase on the steady incline, rewarding careful footwork and a calm, measured pace. As you ascend, a crisp breeze from the nearby forests brushes the cliff face, carrying the scent of pine and fresh earth, while the distant call of birds punctuates the quiet focus of the climb. The route concludes at a bolted anchor perched on a modest ledge, providing a secure and scenic belay point where you can pause to drink in subtle views of the verdant valley below.

Ideal for newcomers stepping into the world of traditional gear, this route demands a basic rack, making placement straightforward though mindful. Protection slots comfortably into the crack, emphasizing steady hand jams over committing moves, making it a trust-building climb that balances technique with a generous safety margin. With just one pitch, it’s a perfect choice for an afternoon outing, requiring minimal approach time but delivering a solid climbing experience framed by the natural calm of this lesser-known New Brunswick crag.

Planning to climb "It's a Way of Life" means preparing for variable weather that can shift quickly in this region. It’s best tackled in late spring through early fall when the rock sheds moisture and temperatures remain moderate. Footwear with sticky rubber and a snug fit will enhance comfort and security across the slab and crack sections. Don't forget to hydrate and carry a lightweight rack including cams and nuts sized primarily for small to medium cracks. Approaching from Welsford is straightforward, with well-maintained trails weaving through thick stands of spruce and fir; the path’s gentle rise primes you for the steady rhythm of the climb ahead.

Whether you're looking to solidify fundamentals or enjoy a serene outing with reliable protection and manageable length, "It's a Way of Life" shapes up as a compelling addition to your climbing itinerary in New Brunswick, showcasing the quiet satisfaction of trad climbing in a natural setting that remains refreshingly unspoiled.

Climber Safety

While the route is beginner-friendly, the slabby nature means slower, deliberate movement is essential — misplaced feet can lead to slips. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so sturdy hiking shoes are advisable. The bolted anchor is reliable but always double-check fixed gear before committing to the belay.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon afternoon sun on the cliff face.

Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes for better friction on slab sections.

Check weather forecasts carefully; rock can become slick after rain.

Pack a light rack focused on small to mid-size protections for efficient placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.4, this climb offers a gentle step into traditional crack climbing, with a rating that feels fair without unexpected difficulty. The steady left-trending crack provides consistent holds, making it feel slightly softer than steeper local routes. The rating aligns well with other beginner trad climbs in the region.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack fits this crack with ease. Expect to place small to medium cams and nuts along the left-leaning flake. The bolted anchor at the top ensures a secure belay station.

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Tags

trad
crack
single pitch
beginner friendly
bolted anchor