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It's a Potpourri!

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
stemming
bouldering crux
mixed protection
exposed
single pitch
quartzite
bulge
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
It's a Potpourri!
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A bold, single-pitch challenge on Nightmare Rock, this 85-foot route blends hard stemming, a demanding bulge, and a crack that tests both power and technique. An ideal climb for those ready to push their limits in Squamish's striking wilderness."

It's a Potpourri!

On the rugged face of Nightmare Rock within the renowned Murrin Park near Squamish, 'It's a Potpourri!' challenges climbers with an intense, focused experience that blends technical finesse and bold movement. This 85-foot route is a singular pitch that demands not only strength but sharp route-reading skills, as it negotiates a bolted corner with hard stemming that pushes you upward to a prominent ledge. At this point, the climb shifts character; the left bulge emerges like a test of raw power and precision, where a well-placed bolt hints at the crux. The boulder problem over this bulge is unforgiving, requiring a delicate balance of body tension and dynamic flair before you commit to the crack that traces the edge of the arete. This crack serves as your final path to the anchors, offering excellent hands and feet holds to regain composure after the demanding bulge.

The position on the rock offers not only a physical challenge but a satisfying sense of exposure, where the surrounding wilderness asserts itself around you in every direction. Climbers will appreciate the mixture of protection: bolts keep the key cruxes secure, while some careful small cam placements add a traditional element that rewards experience in gear placement. Timing your ascent to avoid busy weekends in Murrin Park is wise, as that enhances the likelihood of solitude on this steely line. Gear up with comfortable but aggressive shoes to unlock the technical stemming section, and bring extra small cams to complement the fixed metal.

Approach starts from the main Murrin Park parking lot, where a well-maintained trail guides you roughly 15 minutes through a forest of Douglas fir and cedar. The path crests not far from Devil’s Crack, turning your attention to Nightmare Rock’s prominent walls. The rock is generally solid quartzite, but the bulge area demands concentrated attention on foothold quality and hand jams, as chucking here can wear you out fast.

This route strikes a balance for climbers stepping into higher-grade routes, offering a clean introduction to sustained stemming and overhang transitions within a single pitch. While the 5.12a rating signals the difficulty, the crux bulge especially bumps the effort, leaving little margin for error. Route-finders will find this climb rewarding for its compact intensity and the interplay between sport and trad protection.

Keep an eye on weather forecasts before heading out: wet conditions can make the stemming sequence slippery and compromise the small gear placements. Early morning ascents catch the wall just as daylight arrives, cooling the rock and enhancing friction during tricky moves.

Descent from the anchors is straightforward—a single 60-meter rappel places climbers safely back on the ground. Pay attention to rappel rope management here, as rock edges can fray ropes if not handled carefully. 'It's a Potpourri!' offers an invigorating taste of Squamish’s diverse climbing options, testing one's ability to fluidly merge strength, technique, and gear savvy into a seamless push to the top.

Climber Safety

The bulge area involves dynamic moves on somewhat sharp quartzite; ensure solid foot placements and commit fully to avoid falls. Small cam placements require careful inspection for secure placement, especially when fatigue sets in. Rappelling demands attention where ropes run over edges to prevent rope damage.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid crowds and enjoy cooler rock temperatures.

Bring climbing shoes with sticky rubber optimized for stemming and crack climbing.

Pack small cams in the range of micro to small sizes to protect the crack.

Check weather reports—wet rock reduces friction significantly during stemming.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.12a, the route feels particularly challenging near the bulge where a short boulder problem demands dynamic movement and precise footwork. The stemming section feels sustained but less severe, making the crux the clear effort spike. Seasoned climbers familiar with Squamish's quartzite technicality will find this line a balanced test of power and traditional placement skills.

Gear Requirements

Climbers should carry a rack of small cams to complement the bolts, especially for placements along the crack after the bulge. Bolts secure key sections, but trusting your gear placement is essential to stay safe on the stemming and crack portions.

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Tags

stemming
bouldering crux
mixed protection
exposed
single pitch
quartzite
bulge