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It's a Gemus Thing

Independence, Colorado United States
trad crack
single pitch
roof move
high altitude
Colorado climbing
anchors shared
moderate grade
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
It's a Gemus Thing
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Offering a compelling 45-foot single pitch on Upper Pitbull Cliff, "It's a Gemus Thing" combines moderate crack climbing with a technical roof maneuver. Its approachable 5.8 grade makes it a prime option for trad climbers eager to sharpen technique amid Colorado’s raw alpine backdrop."

It's a Gemus Thing

Set high on Upper Pitbull Cliff, "It's a Gemus Thing" is a precise one-pitch trad climb offering 45 feet of engaging, approachable movement. The route begins with a sloping crack that challenges your footwork and hand jams, before guiding you right around a distinctive roof feature. This subtle roof offers a moment of technical finesse without overwhelming the climber, making the climb a satisfying test for those comfortable with moderate cracks and exposed climbing. The rock’s texture holds a steady grip, demanding clean placements and focus as you push upward.

This climb shares its anchors with the nearby route "The Diet," allowing for efficient rappel or quick top-rope setups once you've topped out. Situated in the Upper Boulderfield area near Independence Pass, the wall greets the morning sun, warming the rock as the chill fades with daylight. The environment here is unpretentious yet inspiring — tall pines sway gently above, and distant mountain ridges frame the horizon with raw Colorado wilderness. The cliff’s elevation at 11,900 feet plays into the effort, demanding climbers pace themselves and stay attentive to hydration as the thinner air intensifies exertion.

Accessing "It's a Gemus Thing" requires a modest hike through rocky, uneven terrain. The approach trail skirts around dense clusters of pines and scattered boulders, with footing that can turn slick under wet or icy conditions, especially outside the summer months. The area’s quietude offers a focused setting where the sound of rock tapping against rack and the occasional birdcall connect you directly to the mountain’s pulse.

Protection favors traditional gear placements up to a #1, balancing security with an opportunity to hone gear judgment on slender cracks. The anchors are fixed and reliable, providing peace of mind during descent. Given the route's single pitch and moderate grade of 5.8, this climb suits those seeking a gateway adventure in technical crack climbing — a spot to sharpen fundamentals while soaking up spectacular alpine scenery.

Local climbers appreciate "It's a Gemus Thing" for its straightforward beta and consistent rock quality. Still, the climb demands awareness of sudden weather changes common at this elevation; afternoon storms can arrive with little warning, so an early start is recommended. Footwear with sticky soles, a light rack with cams up to #1, and plenty of water will serve climbers well here. Whether you’re stepping up from easier terrain or tuning crack skills for more serious routes, this climb delivers a grounded, memorable Colorado climbing experience.

Climber Safety

Watch for sudden weather shifts typical in high alpine environments; the approach trail can become slippery with rain or frost. Although the climb is protected well, errant gear placements on the sloping crack can lead to insecure falls. Always double-check anchors shared with adjacent routes before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common at this elevation.

Wear sticky-soled shoes to maintain traction on smooth sections of the crack.

Hydrate well before climbing—high altitude intensifies fatigue.

Approach trail can be slippery; consider trekking poles for stability.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here is true to form, presenting a solid challenge without overstating difficulty. The crux lies in navigating the sloping crack and maneuvering around the roof—neither move is unfair, but both require precise gear placements and thoughtful movement. Compared to nearby routes in Upper Boulderfield, this climb feels straightforward, a reliable step up from beginner cracks into sustained trad terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to #1; gear placements are reliable but require good judgement on the sloping crack. Fixed anchors at the top allow easy rappel or top-rope setup.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
roof move
high altitude
Colorado climbing
anchors shared
moderate grade