"Iron Man stands as a rugged alpine trad route in the Adamants, combining eight long pitches of technical crack and face climbing above the Austerity Glacier. Challenging yet rewarding, it demands steady feet and precise gear placements amid breathtaking glacier views."
Iron Man on Gibson/Rohn stands as one of the most commanding alpine trad routes in British Columbia’s Adamants, stretching over 1000 feet across eight varied pitches that challenge both technical skill and endurance. Positioned above the Austerity Glacier, the climb offers a rugged, raw experience shaped by the ongoing retreat of ice, which has transformed access and added a subtle edge to the approach. Starting mid-buttress, the route demands a careful entrance through a ledge system leading to a right-side belay—an invitation that quickly turns into a demanding 40-meter splitter crack. The first pitch presents a sustained test of crack and face climbing that, while rated 5.9 in some sources, pushes into strong 5.10+ territory, especially when negotiating tension-filled moves across delicate stepover sections.
As you ascend, the rock weaves right-facing corners and vertical cracks, moving into a prominent ledge that offers a brief respite before relocating the belay 5 meters NNW. From here, the line steepens into discontinuous cracks and a hanging flake guarded by fixed pins, rewarding precise movement with subtle but rewarding rests. The following pitches blend technical cracks with moderate fifth-class scrambling over exposed terrain, threading a path through a headwall crowned by a thin crack—a deceptively tricky 5.10+ segment that tests finger strength and balance without overwhelming climbers.
Traversing right to the south face leads to a final, exposed crack with sweeping views onto the glacier below, culminating in a summit plateau that commands a broad glance across the Selkirks. The descent demands as much respect as the climb; a steep, loose gully lined with fixed slings drops to the Austerity Glacier’s top, where late summer ice conditions pose serious hazards. A well-timed descent with ice axe and crampons is essential, with caution advised around the brittle glacier edge.
The Adamants remain a true wilderness setting where glaciers carve the landscape and rock routes redefine personal limits. For those ready to embrace the blend of alpine adventure and technical climbing, Iron Man offers a rich, grounded experience—a mix of precise climbing, glacier watchfulness, and a route etched in North American alpine climbing lore. Gear up with a double set of cams, nuts, and slings; bring a 70m rope and be prepared for alpine descent tactics, ensuring a safe, memorable outing in this remote climbing arena.
The descent gully off the summit can be treacherous—loose rock and fixed slings hint at unstable terrain. Glacier edges near the Austerity can turn icy and brittle in late summer, making crampons and an ice axe essential for safe retreat.
Start mid-buttress to avoid difficult access on the original lower start.
Carry a full double rack to protect crack variations throughout the pitch transitions.
Approach and descend with caution on glacial and loose terrain, especially in late summer.
Plan your climb early in the day to avoid afternoon alpine hazards like falling rock or warming ice.
Double cams from green alien to #2 camalot, one #3 camalot, nuts, and slings. One 70m rope suffices. Ice axe and crampons recommended for the descent due to steep glacier terrain.
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