HomeClimbingInverted Vee

Inverted Vee at Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge: A Raw and Reckless Trad Challenge

Boulder, Colorado United States
loose-rock
acute-dihedral
roof-crux
exposed
belayer-warning
single-pitch
trad-protection
Eldorado Canyon
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Inverted Vee
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Inverted Vee on Eldorado Canyon’s Rotten Wall is a one-pitch, 5.8 R trad testpiece marked by a massive dihedral and a looming 60-degree roof. Brace for loose rock hazards and technical placements in this exposed and unforgiving climb high on the West Ridge."

Inverted Vee at Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge: A Raw and Reckless Trad Challenge

In the shadowy expanse of Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, the Inverted Vee manifests as a forbidding crack and dihedral line on the notorious Rotten Wall. Here, the rock wears its instability like a badge of defiance. This climb demands focus not just on the moves but on the ever-present threat of loose stone cascading unpredictably. Positioned above the well-traveled Doctor Michael Solar route, and just below the Cirque of the Cracks, Inverted Vee offers a secluded pocket of rugged adventure that rewards bold climbers willing to navigate its unpredictable nature.

Approaching the route, hikers follow a trail that softly ascends the West Ridge, cresting a flattened pass before the terrain steepens once more. Nearly hidden until close-up, the climb reveals itself as a vast, acute dihedral that juts outward more than ten meters above ground. This feature grows wider and more inviting with height, though the promise quickly morphs into a stern test. A 60-degree roof awaits near the top, shaped to force any climber to swing left and out beneath its lip, transitioning into a tricky crack and face sequence.

The route’s titular 'V' design is carved sharply through the rock, with the roof capping this jagged crack system in a way that is as iconic as it is intimidating. The climb’s raw character emerges not only in the physical challenge but in its relationship with gravity: loosened flakes and shards seem eager to break free, especially as a rope snakes through the line of ascent. This dynamic means every move echoes with the potential for rockfall, demanding heightened caution and clear communication between climber and belayer.

Protection requires a solid standard rack emphasizing a range of hand-sized pieces, supplemented by lengthy slings to navigate tricky placements around flared cracks and the extended dihedral. Helmets for leader and belayer are non-negotiable; the route’s reputation for rockfall is grim but well-earned. The belayer’s position should be chosen carefully—ideally behind cover or ready to sprint clear—since debris often funnels directly down to the base in unpredictable patterns akin to a relentless pinball machine.

Finishing the route invites a critical decision: some climbers opt to traverse left beneath the roof, a 20-foot move across slabby face rock that offers access to a rappel station, reducing exposure to lingering hazards. Alternatively, a more direct descent can be made from a tree-anchor at the roof’s lip, but this requires careful set-up and attentiveness to avoid loose rock hazards.

Descending calls for a series of rappels, moving leftward from tree to tree and then to bolts before reaching solid ground. This sequence is technical; multiple anchors and clear route-finding skills are essential to avoid compounding risk at the end of the climb. The approach and departure together shape an experience that feels uncompromising—part test of skill, part negotiation with the mountain’s unpredictable temperament.

Despite its reputation, Inverted Vee has surprising moments of natural life: under the roof, a large swallow colony has made the space their sanctum, their persistent presence a wild, almost comical counterpoint to the hardened seriousness of this line. Climbers find themselves sharing the climb with these winged tenants, whose droppings remind all who dare ascend that nature claims this wall as much as human ambition does.

Overall, Inverted Vee is a climb for those who respect the raw edges of adventure. It demands strong trad skills, mental toughness, and an acceptance that nature’s chaos is part of the route’s character. For climbers eyeing Eldorado’s West Ridge, this line is a rare offering of chaotic, exposed climbing with a real sense of place deep in Colorado’s wild heart.

Climber Safety

The Rotten Wall is infamous for loose stone that falls unpredictably, especially from the roof exit and the dihedral itself. Belayers must seek shelter or stand clear. Rockfall can be triggered by even a single swinging rope or a misstep. Helmets are non-negotiable. Do not attempt the climb if conditions feel unstable, and always scout carefully before committing to moves above the roof.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Position your belayer behind natural cover or ready to move away swiftly from falling debris.

Consider traversing left under the roof to reach the rappel anchor safely instead of finishing directly above the roof.

Wear a helmet and ensure all parties are prepared for loose rock; a biohazard suit is not mandatory but suggested for the belayer.

Descend via multiple rappels moving left along trees and bolts; beware of slippery or loose anchor points.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating here is more than a technical difficulty—it underlines the serious risk posed by loose rock and runout protection. While the climbing moves hover around moderate levels, the presence of a steep roof and a large acute dihedral adds to the physical and mental demands. The 'R' suffix is well-earned, signaling caution rather than outright difficulty. Compared to other Eldorado trad lines of similar grades, Inverted Vee feels like navigating a wild card stitched with unpredictability and hazard, best suited for climbers comfortable with at-risk terrain.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a standard trad rack including several hand-sized cams and plenty of long slings to extend placements in the wide dihedral and under the roof. Helmets are mandatory; the leader and belayer should anticipate falling rock at all times.

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Tags

loose-rock
acute-dihedral
roof-crux
exposed
belayer-warning
single-pitch
trad-protection
Eldorado Canyon