HomeClimbingInfra-Red

Infra-Red: A Dynamic Sport Climb in Truckee River Canyon

Truckee, California United States
sport climbing
crack climbing
arete
granite
single pitch
exposed
Length: 65 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Infra-Red
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Infra-Red offers a focused, single-pitch challenge that shifts seamlessly from technical crack climbing into face moves, all on exposed granite in Truckee River Canyon. Ideal for climbers eager to test precision and power in a compact 65-foot route with solid protection."

Infra-Red: A Dynamic Sport Climb in Truckee River Canyon

Standing beneath Infra-Red, you face a route that combines technical crack climbing with bold face moves, all set against the raw granite cliffs of Truckee River Canyon. The climb kicks off inside a sharp dihedral, where a narrow crack tests your finger strength and footwork. From there, the route shifts left around a prominent arete, opening up into a sequence of sustained face climbing. Bolts are spaced to challenge your commitment, and generous jugs provide welcome rest spots amidst the exposure. This single-pitch route stretches about 65 feet, a perfect length to push your movement and efficiency without overstaying its welcome.

The granite here feels alive—cold and textured, demanding precise placements and body positioning. As you move from the constricted crack into the open face, your senses heighten: the rough stone under fingertips, the distant murmur of the Truckee River daring you onward, and the pine-scented breeze filtering through. Bolts are your safety net, six in total, leading to a secure anchor that feels reliably solid.

Accessing Infra-Red is straightforward, with a short approach hike across firm terrain from the parking near Light Deprivation Buttress. The trail winds through sparse forest, balancing dappled sunlight with shaded patches that keep the rock cool during late spring and early fall. Expect about 10-15 minutes of easy terrain before stepping onto the base.

Ideal conditions for climbing here lean toward cooler parts of the day—morning or late afternoon—when the wall gains less direct sun and friction stays optimal. Due to the route’s exposure and rock quality, climbers should trust their ability to manage pump and focus on precise footwork, especially transitioning around the arete where holds thin. The 5.9 rating feels true to the technical demands, with a crux that requires solid crack technique and face climbing confidence.

Safety is key on this exposed granite face. Although the bolts are well-placed, the rock can surprise with occasional loose flakes near the base. Wearing a helmet and carefully testing holds before committing is a practical must. Additionally, be mindful of the seasonal weather in the Truckee area—afternoon thunderstorms can roll in fast, and the descent trail becomes slippery when wet.

For those preparing to send Infra-Red, pack climbing shoes with sticky soles and a rack focused on quickdraws, as no traditional gear placements are needed here. Hydrate well before the climb: the semi-arid canyon offers little shade between climbs, so water and sunscreen will keep your edge sharp. The anchor awaits a solid rap or a careful downclimb, making this an accessible yet challenging gem for sport climbers visiting the Lake Tahoe region.

Infra-Red isn’t just a route; it’s a brief but demanding dialogue with granite’s sharp angles and smooth faces, inviting climbers to blend technique with steady resolve.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution near the base where loose flakes may be present. Always wear a helmet and test holds before fully committing, especially around the initial dihedral. Weather can change quickly, so plan your climb to avoid afternoon storms.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the Light Deprivation Buttress parking for the shortest, most straightforward trail.

Climb in morning or late afternoon to avoid intense midday sun on the granite face.

Wear a helmet as loose flakes can be found near the base of the climb.

Check the weather forecast carefully, as summer thunderstorms can develop rapidly in the canyon.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The climb’s 5.9 rating matches the sustained technical sequence starting in the crack and moving onto the face. The crux around the arete demands good crack technique combined with confident movement on smaller holds. The grade is fairly stiff for a moderate route, rewarding precision rather than raw power and is comparable to other solid 5.9 routes in the Tahoe area that blend crack and face climbing.

Gear Requirements

This sport climb is equipped with six bolts leading to a secure set of anchors, eliminating the need for traditional gear. Quickdraws will suffice, making your rack light and mobile.

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Tags

sport climbing
crack climbing
arete
granite
single pitch
exposed